Ron - did you tell Gav that your horn sound like a strangled cat when it gets water in it - so needs to be pointed down a bit.
My air con piston type compressor has been going for years and I usually charge the air tank everytime I use the vehicle.
I also have a small dip stick in the side of the compressor and top up the oil every engine oil change.
My compressor uses the original 101s 24volt altenator drive belt and pulley set up...........I don't know the gear ratio compared to the engine, most likely slightly higher/faster.
I find at 2000rpm engine is more than enough air for anything you may need, but heat will build up quickly as the compressor has no cooling fins etc.
If pumping tyres .......usually for more than one vehicle, a fast idle speed is enough to maintain pressure in the tank and heat built up is reduced and therefore I will have along lasting compressor and little risk of melting the air supply hose to the tank.
My Nippon Denso piston compressor is much smaller than a York
The limit to pumping tyres at a fast idle is the restriction of the tyre valve.
I can spin the whole thing at 4000rpm engine speed, but there is no need to.
I can spray paint at 2000rpm engine speed and run a rattle gun for a short time.
The 101s air system has been used from time to time for on site stripping of old vehicles for spares or replacing the garage compressor at home if a friend has borrowed it.
Its biggest job has been charging the air brake system of a truck which lost its air.................it took a while at 1500rpm , but did it in about 10 mins.
Expect good things from your set up Gav.
You will find any electric compressor will not cut the mustard to a engine driven York on the tracks pumping tyres and of cause working air horns.
Ron - did you tell Gav that your horn sound like a strangled cat when it gets water in it - so needs to be pointed down a bit.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Well, two steps forward, one step back... Went to mount the compressor today, and despite me measuring things up, it won't fit in there on the factory bracket on the angle it sits in there...
So, I now have to work out how to build the new bracket that is required. It will be a bit tricky as I need it adjustable like the old one to take up the belt tension, but one of the bolts I need it to swing on will need to be countersunk to clear the compressor housing... Hmmm, not sure what to do now...
I think I'll go on with something else until I have a eureka moment...![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
Rad still in - plenty of room to work, just not enough for the enormous factory bracket. There is physically plenty of room for the compressor should I be able to make a bracket. I'm fairly agricultural with my fabrication, so having to get things spot on is not my strong suit. I usually just cut and weld stuff up - take the tank bracket for example - I didn't use a ruler or tape measure at all building that.
The bracket will need to consist of two plates at right angles - I'll see if I can take some pics that make sense.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
All this talk about air horns and wistles
Fire siren
Mrs hh![]()
Series Landy Rescue
Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
Our FB Page..
https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks
'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
Ok, some pics. First up is a front on shot of the bracket, with the compressor next to it - you can clearly see the 3 mounting points - one fixed, and two pivoting on that axis.
Second shot shows roughly where the compressor needs to go in relation to the bracket. You can see here the upper LH pivot slot is now covered. The plate that bolts to the block can only be about 6mm thick behind the compressor or the pulleys won't line up. The photo is at a bit of an angle but the bottom fixed mounting bolt is visible and usable as is. Basically, I need to move it about 50mm closer to the engine and down about 25mm.
Last shot shows the hole it's got to go in...
If it mounts where I want it too, then there will be clearance to change the oil filter and the engine cover won't need modifying. I can hold it in the spot I want it, but I can't take a photo at the same time. I'll try blocking it up into position tomorrow and take a couple more pics.
Any thoughts?![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Just had a thought. I may be able to mount the bracket hard up to the block - with no adjustment and use a separate tensioner below it. If I did this, I could counter sink that one screw, then bolt the compressor to the bracket - there will be room to do this but I would need very small hands.
Any other thoughts appreciated.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Thoughts - mate you need to get out in the sun and get a sun tan!!! Those legs are pale!!!![]()
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
03 130 Td5 Single Cab
06 Discovery 3 Petrol
22 Defender 90 - Full rego
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks