Thread: Gav's 101.

Alternatively... strip out any sound deadening and you might not be able to hear anything from the passenger seat...
Lighter - more fuel economic - quieter??

Originally Posted by roobar_and_custard

Alternatively... strip out any sound deadening and you might not be able to hear anything from the passenger seat...
Lighter - more fuel economic - quieter??

I like the thought, but a 101 doesn't have an ysound deadening to remove... It would be much quieter, lighter and economic if I left SWMBO behind, but that would lead to more greif than I'm prepared to put up with...

So, out with everything again this arvo to fix the coolant leak. Water pump off... and I get to see what the coolant has been doing to this engine for the last 36 years....



Spotless!. Not a sign of corrosion here or in the front cover. Pretty bloody happy about that.

Looking at this pic of the water pump, the bolt I broke is the one that would go through the bottom hole, second from the right. All the other bolts came out easily and have no sign of corrosion on them, so a bit ****ed off that one decided not to play the game. It is broken off flush with the housing. It's one of the short ones that just goes into the housing, not one of the big long suckers.

So, I done really have any way of repairing this in situ at the moment, so I'll go onto something else while I think about it. I am tossing up whether to just silicon the new gasket on and hope it doesn't leak - my dodgy brothers mentality is coming out...!

I'll see what I can come up with...

Put a nut on it, weld the nut to the broken bolt. The heat should help loosen it.
That is assuming there is a bit of the bolt sticking out.

I have a small MIG if you need to borrow one.

Yeah - no dice, it is flush to the base of the front cover. I might try tacking a few blobs of weld to the end of it and see if I can get enough on it to do that though.

Back in 10...

Edit - nope. Not enough meat to weld anything and if I slip with the electrode I could gouge the housing and be completely screwed.

You're using a stick welder??? Borrow Micks mig! I've always had better luck welding a panel washer over the broken stud. Thinner and easier to weld thru being only 2mm thick. Once on, you can weld a nut to the washer and go from there. Good luck!!

Thanks - I'll see how I go. Really not sure if I can weld anything to it. Someone with a bit more skill may be able to, but it is an a very tight and hard to get to spot, so even with a mig - I'd be struggling. You want to pop over tomorrow and do it for me Simon...

Well, onto other stuff while figuring out the busted bolt issue. When I pulled the belt off I noticed it had been rubbing - just - on the oil cooler lines due to where the tensioner was sitting. It clears them ok (sort of) when stationary, but the belt must be flicking in and out a bit, so that idea is no good. Just not happy to leave clearances that close. Looking at the bracket, there is heaps of room to slot the holes and use the compressor itself to tension the belt. So time to slot the holes. One down, three to go....



But, like everything, this may create its own issue - clearance to the engine cover - time will tell...