Gav's 101.

So, as Corowa is getting close, and the steering and brakes starting to feel like they need some work, I just completed a very thorough going over of the front end. It's nearly 3 years since I bought it, and apart from adjusting the brakes twice and replacing the flexible brake lines, I haven't touched it - I've done just shy of 15,000 KM in those 3 years.

So, I pulled the steering arm and drag link off so I could check the swivel pre load - both sides are good, no adjustment nessesary and no leaks, so nothing to do there. The tie rods on the drag link are both stuffed - that's where the wander was.

Brake drums off removed to find the shoes worn and close to needing replacement - the drums are in very good condition, and have plenty of meat left on them. Biggest bonus is that I have a brand new set of shoes off Cam's series 3 - 6 cylinder versions, so identical. I've got a disk brake front end for that, so I'll snaffle those. Wheel cylinders are all dry behind the rubbers.

Removed the shocks and rubbers - all in A1 condition - the bushes are urethane and look like new.

Steering arm tie rods are dry, but otherwise ok - I think fitting a grease nipple to these - as Ron suggested I do a couple of years back :angel: will sort these.

Steering damper is quite loose - probably another contributor to the steering not feeling very good - the new RRC unit I have here is close, but a smidge longer when compressed - I'll see if that will work when I put it back together.

Drivers side swivel seal is leaking - I have a new one, so sorted there, the swivels themselves are in A1 condition, so that should seal up again fine.

Wheel bearings are adjusted fine and have no play.

So, all in all a good report card, with only a few new bits needed.

Questions - I believe the drag link tie rod ends are the same as Defender items - can anyone confirm this? Edit - by looking at some pics, that does not seem to be the case - any ideas?

- are the steering arm tie rod ends also easy to get? If so, then I might replace those at the same time.

- why are the hub bolts painted red on British military vehicles? Did they really do this in service or is it just some wanky thing people do? I'll be squirting a bit of new satin black around the axle housing and brackets, and if the hub bolts were painted red in service, then I might do these too while I'm at it.

As always, thanks in advance for your help.

Ok, looks like these repair kits could save a few dollars - anyone used them before?

http://shop.101parts.co.uk/index.php...roller=product

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Originally Posted by Homestar

Ok, looks like these repair kits could save a few dollars - anyone used them before?

Ball Joint Repair Kit (Land Rover Part)

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I used one similar to this on a classic years ago it worked till i sold the car does this help ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rangieman

I used one similar to this on a classic years ago it worked till i sold the car does this help ;)

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Certainly does thanks - the entire unit is nearly 100 quid, so if these do the trick, it will save me heaps. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rangieman

I used one similar to this on a classic years ago it worked till i sold the car does this help ;)

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Depends on the the amount of time that elapsed between when you fitted the kit and when you sold it.

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

Depends on the the amount of time that elapsed between when you fitted the kit and when you sold it.

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3 years;)

The rod ends in a 101 are self adjusting and most likely do not need replacing.
Install a small grease nipple in the exact middle of end cap of the rod end..............ie 1/4 unf nipple.
Pumping grease into the area around the top of the ball of the rod end will greatly help its self adjusting qualities, reduce steering effort and reduce play.
The tie rod ends are rebuildable if needed and are of the same design as the others except the ball cap is removeable for disassembly.
As far as I know the 101 rod ends do not interchange with other Land rover rod ends.
As stated these rod ends are self adjusting via internal spring.
A 101 rod end will get up and down play normally because of the internal spring.
Pushing grease into the rod end will remove the up and down movement and reduce wear.( and save confusion with people who don't know at rego inspection)
The grease will not get directly to the wearing surface of the rod end straight away, but it will get there.
If you have removed the front sway bar, you will find they are the same rod end.
I think AJ has rod end repair kits.............try the grease nipple as it will most likely not be needed.
The hole for the grease nipple must be small and centred, as it must be drilled and tapped though the centre of the rod end internal spring.

042.jpg Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket

043.jpg Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket

Once again, spot on Ron. :)

Now you've typed that up, I remeber the conversation we had about them. Just pulled the tie rod ends apart - just gunked up. With a good clean, and the grease nipple in the back, they should be as good as new. With both back plates off, drilling and tapping them will be easy. :)

Thanks heaps.