Thread: Finally got another

Inspires confidence... I suppose worst case I could always sell it and build/buy another? Probably going to be a bit of time passing between now and it becoming a problem anyways.

Back to the 101, having covered a few miles in a V8 P38 in the past few days, along with spending some time with a V8 101 and discovering gas is actually less than half the price of diesel at the minute I'm pretty much convinced that when it comes to fitting an engine then it's gonna be a V8!!!

The plan is to copy the Whitbread ones and shunt the engine and box backwards a bit (I think 8-10 inches is the magic number) as its supposed to give an improvement in weight distribution. According to my mate with the LHD one it feels a lot better at higher speeds.

Fuel wise I'm thinking run it LPG only, it solves the problem of the fuel tank being a bit dubious (and I hate the filler neck setup) plus there's plenty of space to fit a reserve tank, just in case.
It also fits with the use what I've got nature of the build, which includes a 100 litre barrel tank (which is full) that came out of the 110 I rebodied my one with.

With the engine I'm gonna run it with an efi manifold/plenum and a gas mixer on the end, mostly because I've got the bits, and I believe it's a more efficient setup than mixers on a twin carb setup.

Many plans, lots of ideas, now just need the time to knuckle down and do some work on it. When I've got everyone else's out of the way...

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Inspires confidence... I suppose worst case I could always sell it and build/buy another? Probably going to be a bit of time passing between now and it becoming a problem anyways.

Back to the 101, having covered a few miles in a V8 P38 in the past few days, along with spending some time with a V8 101 and discovering gas is actually less than half the price of diesel at the minute I'm pretty much convinced that when it comes to fitting an engine then it's gonna be a V8!!!

The plan is to copy the Whitbread ones and shunt the engine and box backwards a bit (I think 8-10 inches is the magic number) as its supposed to give an improvement in weight distribution. According to my mate with the LHD one it feels a lot better at higher speeds.

Is there going to be a great improvement in ride and handling by going to coils when you have the weight back a bit further? Would that make the parabolics not work better too?

Fuel wise I'm thinking run it LPG only, it solves the problem of the fuel tank being a bit dubious (and I hate the filler neck setup) plus there's plenty of space to fit a reserve tank, just in case.
It also fits with the use what I've got nature of the build, which includes a 100 litre barrel tank (which is full) that came out of the 110 I rebodied my one with.

With the engine I'm gonna run it with an efi manifold/plenum and a gas mixer on the end, mostly because I've got the bits, and I believe it's a more efficient setup than mixers on a twin carb setup.

Many plans, lots of ideas, now just need the time to knuckle down and do some work on it. When I've got everyone else's out of the way...

Sounds a good set-up.

Bob

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

The plan is to copy the Whitbread ones and shunt the engine and box backwards a bit (I think 8-10 inches is the magic number) as its supposed to give an improvement in weight distribution.

The rear driveshaft already operates outside Uj design parameters - how do do you intend to deal with this if the gearbox is moved back further increasing shaft angles even further. One option is to lower the engine gearbox unit a few inches - but interested on your thoughts on this.

Garry

There's a few things that will make a difference.

First off, when I ran the auto box in my old GS the engine remained in its original position, with a longer front prop, and a shorter rear running a steeper angle. It eliminated the front prop rumble, whilst the rear didn't give any trouble in the 5,000miles I ran it, widget same could've been said for the wiring...

Anyways, the factors which will make it different:

1. Rangie axles (running 4.7 diffs) yes not as tough as the originals, but discs all round, and no need to mod the suspension mountings. Added bonus, the nose of the diff is approx 2 inches shorter than the Salisbury.

2. I've based my measurements on using the 90/Rangie suspension setup on the 101 chassis, using the top of the main rail as the datum, measuring this against a 101 it'll sit approx 20-25mm lower than a standard truck.

3. I think to get the engine and box back where I want it then it'll have to drop and inch or so at the back anyways.

By that logic I can't see the prop angle being any worse than a lifted 90, with which a wide angle (like an earlier Rangie) prop will cope with happily.

Bob, part of the reason I'm going coils is because I don't have a full set of springs for the 101, plus I fancy the challenge of making the coil setup work.

Wolf rims on a 101? Gotta be cool.

What about:

130 coil Front end (higher weight carrying capacity probably towards 101 capacity) with ventilated discs, basically stronger version of RR;

Lower the transmission/engine assembly to get a better rear shaft angle,

Or suitably lengthen the chassis which would give you a bit more room and no real disadvantages;

Leaf suspension from the 101 rear but fit a disc braked later 110 Salisbury to it, saves all the messing around with the rear coil suspension, A arms, etc. giving you same f&r track and heaps stronger with a proven suspension. (Don't weld the spring perches until you have the weight of your body, load, etc to get a mid point of the spring compression to determine the best diff nose angle);

Suitable ratio change, either differentials or transfer case;

4.0L EFI engine on LPG/Petrol with switchable mapping for both.

You could fit Wolf rims or maybe more original looking - LR F/C 2B Rims making the widest track - getting close to the 101.

Bob

Agreed bobslandies, run a 110/130 Salisbury in the rear with the 4.7:1 ratio and the nose lifted. I ran 4.7's initially in my V8 off roader, and they were forever breaking! Ended up running 3.5's and a 1.667:1 transfer case just to stop the diffs breaking. The gearbox in my Nissan powered 101 went back 150mm and the rumble disappeared. Rear prop gave no issues either. Still yet to see where the handbrake drum will be with the Cummins.... Prob somewhere between the rear axle and rear x member!!

Interesting and valid points on all counts.

However, there are a few reasons I'm thinking the way I am, mostly to do with spending as little money as possible on the project (born in Yorkshire, live in Scotland, I'm the thrifty sort) so utilising stuff I have already, or making sure anything I do buy is as cheap as possible.

I'm not too concerned about breaking shafts as it's not gonna be an extreme off roader, whilst the idea behind the 4.7's is they should work ok with the 101 box and a set of bargrips (****loads of em, might as well make use) whilst selling the 3.54's coming out of the axles should sell well enough to cover the cost of em, and nobody wants 4.7's so there's plenty of em available for nothing.

I'll be humble about it if it all cocks up.

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Fuel wise I'm thinking run it LPG only, it solves the problem of the fuel tank being a bit dubious (and I hate the filler neck setup) plus there's plenty of space to fit a reserve tank, just in case.
It also fits with the use what I've got nature of the build, which includes a 100 litre barrel tank (which is full) that came out of the 110 I rebodied my one with.

With the engine I'm gonna run it with an efi manifold/plenum and a gas mixer on the end, mostly because I've got the bits, and I believe it's a more efficient setup than mixers on a twin carb setup.

Sounds like heaps of fun!

Have you heard about the Blos carburettor for mixing LPG? They are available on eBay but I haven't used one. Blos Propane Carburetor LPG Carb Mixer Better Performance AND Mileage | eBay

I have just bought a Megajolt ignition system for one of my cars and a Megasquirt for the Disco. On the Disco it has had the MS built with two ignition maps - one for gas and one for petrol.

Have a read of these websites and being a handy chap with lots of suitable donor cars near you, you should be able to source the components for chicken-feed.
Main Page - Autosport Labs
ExtraEFI.co.uk HOME

My Megajolt system cost me about $800 for everything new but the MJ controller was only about $300 and it is possible to make your own

Cheers Charlie