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Thread: Sitec's 101..

  1. #81
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    That tank looks good. Just shy of 145 litres - a good size.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  2. #82
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    Finally I have a clear weekend ahead to actually do some stuff!!! Collected the 6 wheels today from the shot blasters. Having had a go at paint stripping and wire brushing one of the rims I soon wised up. Even the commercial steam cleaner at work wouldn't shift it all (and that was also after painting some brake fluid on it!!)... So I was happy to pay a local farmer $140 to shot blast them. Gotta say, I'm very happy with the results (pictured). If and when I do the full strip down, he'll be doing the chassis too! Had more thoughts re the fuel tank scenario. Have settled on two tanks, one on each side. They'll match the shape of the one in the previous pic but will be approx 300mm shorter. The RH tank will have a 300mm x 500mm cylindrical air tank situated behind it (rear wheel end) for the air clutch, eventual front locker (if I can't find and make a Truetrac fit), exhaust brake and air horns. The LH tank wil also be approx 300mm shorter and have room for a pair of N70 batteries. Still not sure if the Cummins is 12 or 24 volt!! Either way, if not, a second battery is always useful. The tanks will be linked by a 3/4 fuel hose and a ball type one way valve. Filling will be from the RHS as normal and on level ground both tanks will fill together. The pick up and gauge will be in the LH tank, and as that fuel gets used fuel from the RH tank will migrate to the left (aided by cornering!!!). Just gotta find the suitable ball valve. Will post a drawing if anybody wants to view it.
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  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    The tanks will be linked by a 3/4 fuel hose and a ball type one way valve. Filling will be from the RHS as normal and on level ground both tanks will fill together. The pick up and gauge will be in the LH tank, and as that fuel gets used fuel from the RH tank will migrate to the left (aided by cornering!!!). Just gotta find the suitable ball valve.
    Why do you need a ball valve? I presume for servicing; so that one tank can be isolated for removal; if that is the case any tap-type fuel valve would work,

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #84
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    The system will need a one way valve so that the fuel in the left tank can never return to the right tank, as I'll be running the gauge and pick up in the left tank. It used to leak back on my old 101, if it was parked on a slight slope down to the right..... then the thing wouldn't start!

  5. #85
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    Primed rims!

    Well, the rims have had their first coat of primer, and will get the second before the day is done. Tyres are being fitted on Monday, then it'll be top coat silver. Have settled on silver as it will work on against a white vehicle with black features, but will also work in the short term with the current drab green. If they were white I think they'd stand out like dogs balls!!
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  6. #86
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    Hinges to suit Defender mirrors.

    Here's a pic of the front door hinges that I've modified to take Defender mirrors. The bottom bolt will still go through the door, and the top bolt will be countersunk into the hinge from behind. Mirror gets fitted to hinge first, then the whole lot gets fitted to the door. No extra holes need drilling into the door then.
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  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    Here's a pic of the front door hinges that I've modified to take Defender mirrors. The bottom bolt will still go through the door, and the top bolt will be countersunk into the hinge from behind. Mirror gets fitted to hinge first, then the whole lot gets fitted to the door. No extra holes need drilling into the door then.
    I've yet to really check the condition of my mirrors but any reason for going to defender units? Bigger mirrors?

    One feature I really miss off my discovery is the heated mirrors. Meant you didn't need to go around wiping them before a drive on a cold morning. Would be cool to get heated mirrors on the 101 if changing them out.

  8. #88
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    Mirror heating pads

    [QUOTE=stuee;1966152]I've yet to really check the condition of my mirrors but any reason for going to defender units? Bigger mirrors?

    One feature I really miss off my discovery is the heated mirrors. Meant you didn't need to go around wiping them before a drive on a cold morning. Would be cool to get heated mirrors on the 101 if changing them out.[/QUOTE]

    Should be warm with these:

    Auto Mirror Heater Pads, Auto Mirror Heater Pads Wholesale, Auto Mirror Heater Pads Manufacturing

    Bob

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    I've yet to really check the condition of my mirrors but any reason for going to defender units?
    The originals vibrate and are hard to see behind you - the defenders are stable and easy to use.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #90
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    Yup! As garrycol said the Defender setup is easier to use... They will also work well with my eventual colour scheme of white with black features. SWIMBO likes them too!!. Not only that, there was this freak storm here last night, and it blew the mirrors clean off one of Bojan's many Land Rovers and into the cab of my 101!! Whoops!!

    While here, anyone know what this bracket is for?? It's under the left hand side of the tray just behind where Micks Jerry Can Holders were... sorry about pic quality.. It was dark!
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