Thread: Ian's Volvo TGB13 6x6

What is it like to drive? Two observations really – firstly it is noisy. Not a little bit noisy, but really, really noisy. There are a number of reasons for this. It is an empty tin can with no sound proofing and the body attaches directly to the chassis. On top of this, when on a very light throttle, there is a truly awful growl from the rear. I think this is the PTO from the first rear axle taking drive to the rear. Without the 3rd prop shaft in place, this growl completely disappears. When the work starts in earnest, this is the first fix.

Secondly, the ride is amazing! I had a GS in the UK and this is a massive improvement. It is much more comfortable, it tracks really well in a straight line, and is not upset by potholes. It is rather strange with the twin rear axles on a load share spring set up when running over speed humps. It has a good bounce off the front axle (as expected) and almost no movement from the rear.

Performance is ordinary. The GS definitely has more grunt, but it is not a disaster and quite acceptable. I’ve no idea on fuel economy, and with these things, it is better not to know.

The steering is manual, with too many turns lock to lock. It is surprisingly light when moving, but requires tight turns to be taken slowly just to allow enough time to wind through the steering.

I have no idea what it is like in the mud, as sadly it hasn’t yet made it there in my hands. It should be alright though...

There are many different types - military and civilian.
The military come in 4 basic types TGB1111 (open top tank killer), TGB11 (4x4 hardtop), TGB13 (6x6 hard top/ambulance/radio body) and TGB20 (6x6 troop carrier). The civilian derivatives are refered to as C303, C304 and C306, but I have not yet found a definitive explanation on these.
Mine is a TGB13 Command Cab, which is a 6x6 full bodied hard top.
I got mine from a guy who trades in Sweden, Michael Hultengren (hultis4x4@hotmail.com). I had a great experience, but to be honest, that was over 6 years ago.
There are a number of places which appear to deal in them, but as I have not dealt with any of these I have no recommendations.
http://www.staaling.dk/
http://www.bachint.dk/shop/search-1.html?keyword=volvo
http://volvo4x4.eu/
http://fmv4x4.com/web/
http://fmv4x4.com/web/

Are you a member of the yahoo groups Volvo forum and the Real 4x4 forum in the states. Occasionaly cars come up here (mostly Real 4x4 and mostly in the states). There not the most active, but if youe speak German or Swedish then there are plenty of others which are. You may also be able to get a recommendation on a dealer.
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Volvo303/info
http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/index.php

Importing is straightforward, but requires lots of paperwork and funds to change hands. You can import these without restriction as they are are all pre-01 Jan 89, but make sure the date of registration or manufacture is clearly documented. You must get an import approval first, before even commencing shipping. These are available from DOTRS.
Importing Vehicles into Australia

There are many companies that ship - mine came Ro-Ro (Roll-on Roll-off) with Wallenius Wilhelmsen, and an agent in Sweden organised this for me. Whilst waiting for the import approval, your vehicle will need to be stored.

I used an agent in Melbourne to clear customs for me. Plan to pay tax, and lots of it - all up it cost me around 2000AUD in Tax - including quarantine cleaning the car. Again, this is quite straight forward, assuming you find a capable agent.

Registration was also easy, that will depend on which state you are in, but engineering approval will be required. Mine required only modification to lap/sash seatbelts for the rear outboard seating positions and changing the perspex rear windows to safety glass to comply with ADRs, but I also had to prove it was being assessed as a Motor Vehicle in ADR and not a passenger vehicle (see attached). Mine is still LHD as it is over 30 years old.
It then had to have a roadworthy - bizzarly this was the hardest part as many places refused to assess, something to do with the size... Minor work was required to pass, but that is no different to any other roadworthy.
Finally - show up at your local registration authority with Import Approval, Engineers Certificate, Roadworthy Certificate and a means to pay more taxes - I think these are called registration fees - and smile sweetly while they scruitinise the paperwork...

And that's it.

If you need any more specific help, then let me know.