Turn the input shaft clockwise (right?) and the pitman arm swings towards you.
Does that help?
Turn the input shaft clockwise (right?) and the pitman arm swings towards you.
Does that help?
Yes thanks - in theory the right power steering box could just replace the 101 one without the use of a bevel box and locating a nissan power steering box on the front x member.
In my bits and pieces I have a Jeep Cherokee box that will fit perfectly with just a little modification to the mounts and steering column but the pitman arm goes the wrong way so is of no use in that position.
I just checked my Jeep box and in the same layout as your pic, my pitman arm goes away so the Disco box turns the right way. Conventional wisdom says to fit it the chassis needs to be cut but some have said the P38 box works without cutting. I haven't been able to get my hands on either so this information is helpful.
So no more discussion on 101s in your Volvo thread or the gods will get angry.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
You mean like this...
untitled
Small success today. Managed to get the 3D scan data for my hub.
Excellent quality scan, which will need some cleaning up in CAD, but then I will be able to play to confirm if the disc conversion is viable.
The scanner struggled with the shiny shaft, but great result on the rusty hub.
Another small step taken.![]()
Have you considered going RHD since you are doing steering mods or is there too much involved for the rest of the controls ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
I get your point and did consider this too, and as the truck is being converted to an auto, having that column shaft running through where the clutch used to be would have worked better.
However there are some real problems with doing that (and 1 not very good reason).
On the RHS I have the primary fusebox (could be relocated) and main heater/blower (more difficult to fix), but most importantly there are no bulkhead reinforcements on this side for the pedal box - which I was a little surprised by. On a 101, the pedals can be swopped RHD to LHD quite easily as the body was made non-handed - but not in my case.
The slightly less good reason is that I quite like the LHD layout... sad I know, but the looks on the faces of oncoming motorists when a 6 year old is waving at them from the "driver" seat... priceless!![]()
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
What sad fools we are.![]()
Stole some more time outside today and managed to progress beyond the MDF into steel.
Roughed out the Bevel box bracket, but then had to remove the radiator to fit as you can't flex steel as easily as MDF to fit. As always this leads to a brogressive deconstruction of the front end as I ended up having to remove the bumper to get the radiator out.
Brackets fits pretty well, the curved edge on the front needs to be bent around, but I didn't want to do that until I was sure it fitted. Gets pretty close to the front, but is still behind the chassis rails. Eventually I will fit a guard over the front, which will keep it well protected.
Have installed temporarily the top shaft support bearing, and will have to adjust the hole in the floor - but progress nevertheless.
Last picture shows one of those "special" finds that you make when working on an ex-military truck - this one trapped in front of the radiator.
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