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I realised this afternoon that I had stopped reading the manual before finishing it a couple of weeks ago. ("RTFM":angel:). So, yes, I realise now from the "Operation - Heater switch & controls" section of the "User Manual" where the knob for the heater flap is and how it is supposed to function. Must check on that next time I'm in the 101:).Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute
The weekends tasks were to make a battery clamp and fit reversing lights. Looking at the battery box I realised I still had a dual tray that I used to have in my 130. Measured it up and bingo, perfect fit, saved making up clamps, bolted straight in. Also fitted a coles hersey battery switch, mainly to cover a hole that was already there, but also can isolate each battery.
I then fitted a couple of LED lights on the back for reversing lights. As the battery tray doesn't leave room for a relay and fuses I started looking for alternative locations. I discovered the huge void behind the drivers seat.
Drilled out all the rivets for access and mounted a +ve terminal post fuse box and relays for head lights and reverse lights, starter and spare. Also run the wiring for an electric brake controller while I was at it. Connected all the wires that went to the starter motor to the terminal post along with new heavy cable from battery, and to starter. I will fit rivnuts to the frame work to screw the cover plate back on.
After a good inspection I decided the original tyres were looking a bit perished and would struggle to pass the pits, so have fitted all the new ones and will have to do the rubber flare thing. fitted up and adjusted the side gates and doors just to make a bit of room in the shed. And took it for a play round the block.
Bit disappointed with the articulation, but I suppose that's all to be expected with no weight in it.
centre diff lock didn't seem to want to work at first but after a few goes not only did it engage but the dash light also worked. (never has in my rangy)
Anyway the job list is now considerably shorter, still need to fit passenger seat, both seat belts, wheel arch flares and change the g/box oils. And sort the wiper blades.
What are other people using for wiper blades, can you get the skinny squeegee type or is there a better solution?
Looking good!!!! They'll flex with weight, but if you never plan to carry much, I recommend removing one of the rear leaves.. If you do tho, replace the leaf with a 16mm spacer. With the Cummins up front and twin spares on the rear mine rides like a coiler!! Ru going to paint the bumper all black, or leave the dividing paint line there? B gud to see the pic of the three 'South WA 101's' on the road together.. Im seeing consecutive rego plates..... :D
Yes Simon, The front bumper does look odd painted as it is, I think it was to blend in with the big ugly truck bull bar it had on. It needs to come off at some time and get painted as the leaking brake fluid has removed the paint and started rusting it at the drivers side. I would like to build a bumper a bit like yours at some point. Need to try and get a match for the cream paint too.
I might look at removing a rear leaf, depending how I end up using it. I was going to use it as a tow rig for the comp truck which but not sure how to get around the 2 ton towing capacity, so might just be a fun truck :) I haven't decided what to do with the roof yet either. If the hard top goes on it will add a bit of weight over the back.
Trico TB 305Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute
A hint: warm the plastic bit in hot water first to give it a little flex/expansion before putting it on the arm.
A set of Defender arms and blades is my preferred choice. Cheap enough and readily available over here, can't be that far different out there?
The spline on the wiper arm seems to be the same as a rangy classic rear wiper. Will take one off the defender and try that too.
Watch the arm lengths. I have seen Defender arms on a 101 and the wipers wiped just below line of sight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute
Any luck with the wipers? I got new blades from rovacraft. Part STC3302, genuine LR. I think they were about $13-$15 each.
I'm also going to steal your idea about using rivnuts to secure the plate above the fuel filler hose. I've avoided riveting mine back on because I keep thinking I'll need access to the area.