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Yeah, plan to... Both were cracked on the old 101, and are prob still under the bench in the UK! Both on 'Mick' are good, and will be kept. The rest sadly is fit for scrap. Garry, yours is a good mod, tho the first I've seen like it. All the ones I crawled under in the UK had the dodgy 'Tee'.. which can only hinder gas flow! :)
Thanks for the pics guys, the tee piece does look wrong, but there are other things on the 101 also look wrong so it could be original;)
I have a new 3" silencer and plenty of 3" elbows etc that came with it, not sure if it will be quiet enough for the pit nazis like that tho, might give it a go and see what happens. The ends of the exhaust manifolds look a bit rough to seal with gaskets so I,m assuming they should have the conical ring things between the joints, I will see what I can find in my pile of rangy stuff.
I have checked the parts manual and the T piece is original - it is not welded but clamped in place.
Garry
I replaced the tee piece with a Y piece on mine and got slightly better top end poke.
Yes, the down pipes should have a larger version of what's on a brake pipe! Along with a loose metal ring that clamps the flare to the manifold. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute
There is no gasket - loose sealing ring between the exhaust manifold and the start of the exhaust. The end of the exhaust pipe has a ring as part of the pipe that makes its shape the same as the inside of the end of the exhaust manifold. When I had mine apart last I tried all over town looking for one of the donut style sealing rings that are used on exhausts before I worked out none is fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
If in doubt look at the parts manual - a wonderful document.
The joint is a metal to metal join and will leak so I used lots of manifold cement to seal it and it worked fine.
Garry
Was supposed to be laying turf today but had a slight accident and caved the lid in on the septic tank, so the winner was 101.
Connected all the loose wires up, wired in the luminition that was with the engine, connected the battery. Light on the dash straight away, assume it's the ign light because it goes out when I disconnect the ign light wire at the alternator but don't know why it's on all the time. Turned the key, engine turned over. Checked fuel pump, not running. Tried key again no turn over. Oh how I,ve missed lord Lucas.
Several hours later, and a mile of wiring checked, key on, fuel pump running, fuel in tank, no fuel in filter bowl. Was just about to to turn it off and pull out the pump when the bowl suddenly started filling, let in run for a minute to fill the carbs, little bit of choke, turn the key and vroom. Started first turn, never used to do that when I had it in the rangy ute.
Didn't run for long cos it's quite noisey without exhausts and the radiator isn't on yet. Certainly inspires me to get cracking with the rest of it. :D
A Bit of an update.
I have been plodding along with the 101 in and among the other projects I have on the go.
The engine is all in and working well, still have to flush the heater matrix and connect to the engine water, fit a remote oil filter and the original cooler. Made up a gear lever pivot bracket and shifter link as the original one had be modified to suit the Diesel. I had an exhaust system fitted, but I am not realy happy with it, its way too quiet and is too close to the tranny brake and a few other stuff so I will re do it after its been registered.
I scored a couple of old defender seats and have fitted the drivers side so I could have a good play around the block. The driving position has worked out pretty good, just got to fit the other one and sus the seat belts out. I have overhauled the rear brake cylinders and apportioning valve fitted new hoses and all seemed to bleed up ok. Fitted new brake shoes and wheel bearings while I was at it.
I`ve now got all the front hubs etc apart, i`ve honed the brake cylinders that were seized and all are ready to pop new seals in and put back together in the next day or too.
All the shockies seemed ok so they have all gone back on with new bushes, as has the steering damper and anti roll bar .
Stuee and I have a big consignment due from Craddocks this next week or so which will have new wheels and tyres and a few other finishing off stuff like indicator switch, speedo cable etc. Still have to make some headlamp mounts and sort a few electrical gremlins out and probably a whole heap of stuff that I haven’t thought of yet.
Then its time to work out if I have enough documentation to get it over the pits.
Bit of an update on Brutes 101.
Stuee `s and my wheels and tyres turned up a while ago along with some other bits and bobs. Not sure if I want to fit flares to cover the wheels so might leave the old ones on for the pits. Fitted some of the other goodies tho, such as speedo cable and indicator switch.
My 101 had twin headlamps mounted in boxes on the front when I got it, and cover plates over the bumper cutouts. So I made some mounting plates out of 3mm Ally and fitted a pair of defender headlights left over from my sons headlamp upgrade. The wiring had been a bit butchered so I have re done a bit of that but will fit relays eventually and tidy it up a bit.
I`ve had new hoses for the heater for a while so thought i`d flush the heater out before hosing it up. Made up a bit of a connection to put it on the garden hose and turned it on, nothing, not even a drip of water getting through. So time to take out the heater and investigate. For any one who hasn’t removed the heater, it’s a tight fit. Ended up removing both the dash support braces and putting a jack between the tunnel and dash panel, just needs a few mm, but without it the hose tails just wouldn’t clear the tunnel.
Stripped the matrix out of its housing and tried flushing again. Looking down one of the hose tails I could see a rusty lump so gave it a poke with a screw driver and it fell out leaving a nice clean matrix beyond. Bonus, thought I was going to have to get it stripped and cleaned. Repainted the housing while it was out as leaking brake fluid had taken its toll. Fitted the matrix back in with new neoprene rubber strips. Refitting is a reversal as removal as the books always say.
Eventually managed to work out where all the pipes and hoses fitted ( I took the pipes off and painted months ago). While the coolant was out I also fitted a T piece in the top hose to connect a capillary tube water temp gauge as the original had been snipped off at some point. Being in the top hose it only measures accurately when the thermostat has opened, but couldn`t find anywhere else suitable for the big sender unit.
After connecting the heater I realized I had a demister vent missing so decided easiest replacement option was to make one. So knocked one up out of a bit of steel. The hoses are RRC ones out of one of the comp truck donors. I`m quite surprised with how much air the heater fan chucks out, ( after I worked out I had to pull up the knob to open the flap).