Brute's 101

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Originally Posted by Brute

Tight fit it certainly is, the LH manifold is all but touching the chassis rail, the RH has an inch or so. I might have to mess around with the mounts and lift it a tad to stop it knocking.

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I would have a long hard think about how to address that issue. The front driveshaft already operates outside design parameters and ideally the engine/gearbox should sit a bit lower in the chassis to get the driveshaft angles a bit better - so whatever you decide aim for this ideal position - may not be possible but something to keep in mind.

Garry

LH manifold

Nice purchase Ian! I'll race you to get it finished :p

Was this the 101 alluded to in the W4 2013 Challenge thread?

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Originally Posted by stuee

Nice purchase Ian! I'll race you to get it finished :p

Was this the 101 alluded to in the W4 2013 Challenge thread?

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This is the one Stuee. I think your deadline beats mine:D

It would be nice to get them both at the W4 Challenge next year though.

Where abouts are you I wouldn't mind having a look at yours

Cheers

ian

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Originally Posted by Brute

This is the one Stuee. I think your deadline beats mine:D

It would be nice to get them both at the W4 Challenge next year though.

Where abouts are you I wouldn't mind having a look at yours

Cheers

ian

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I'm in Dianella. I work in Kwinana though so can really only do weekends. I have to go down south for a wedding this weekend so if your keen ping through a PM next week and we can sort something out.

I'm dead keen to get mine out and about once its running, really difficult not having a 4wd after having sold the disco.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brute

Tight fit it certainly is, the LH manifold is all but touching the chassis rail, the RH has an inch or so. I might have to mess around with the mounts and lift it a tad to stop it knocking.

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If you're messing round with the mounts would it be worth considering some different rubbers and try to make use of the gap on the drivers side?
Thinner block on the drivers side, and either a thicker one or shims on the passenger side?

There's at least 2 others with the GM V8 diesel in em (one in the UK, one in Holland) although both run auto boxes which will make a difference to prop angles anyways.

This is the Dutch one, rather tight in there Clicky

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Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

If you're messing round with the mounts would it be worth considering some different rubbers and try to make use of the gap on the drivers side?
Thinner block on the drivers side, and either a thicker one or shims on the passenger side?

There's at least 2 others with the GM V8 diesel in em (one in the UK, one in Holland) although both run auto boxes which will make a difference to prop angles anyways.

This is the Dutch one, rather tight in there Clicky

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I was going to look at doing that as the engine doesn't look to run quite true to the chassis to me so I reckon I could get more c learance without lifting it at all just push the front across 20 or 30 mm

If they have used the ZF 4 HP 20 auto and LT 230 transfer case the prop angles should be the same as the LT 95 4 speed manual.

I have an auto kicking around but. Haven't decided whether I want to keep the pto winch or not

Having done an auto into a 101 I can tell you the prop angles are different if the engine stays in the same place, the auto box is about 8 inches longer than the 101 LT95.

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Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Having done an auto into a 101 I can tell you the prop angles are different if the engine stays in the same place, the auto box is about 8 inches longer than the 101 LT95.

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That's heaps, does that make things better or worse? Front better, rear worse I assume.

I was just going by rangy experience, but the 101 LT95 has a different Bell housing to the rangy I believe.

So much to learn, gonna have to ignore years and years of Landy experience and start all over again. The 101 is so unique ( apart from the dodgy wiring and oil leaks):(