Yeah, I don't think there is a magic bullet to stop the rumble apart from engaging the centre diff lock and pulling the front shaft out. I may do this on my next run to see what it is like.
The standard shaft is plenty strong enough but due to the shaft angle the length of the splines is a bit short and they do rattle and wear. In service life for the Aust Army was 17,000km but if greased every 1000km they last forever and rattle less but do still rattle.
I hate the rattle and vibration so 5 years ago I got a new shaft made in Newcastle. It uses larger wide angle yokes, larger UJs with finer needles, the splines are larger in diameter, much longer and have a coating on them. The tube is rubber filled to supposedly reduce vibration.
Well is doesn't vibrate as bad as the original but it still does and requires just as much lubricating. Except for length this shaft owes nothing to the standard shaft but the 101 rumble is still there which indicates the issue is more that just the front shaft.
A while back I enquired about putting in a DC shaft in. The shaft in the Stage 1 and the D2 is a DC and their angles are less than the 101. When I queried why these could not be put in a 101 many people on here said they worked on the Stage 1 and D2 as the front diff on these vehicles are tilted up - but I have looked under many of these and not found that. I contacted Woods in the US and was surprised on their lack of knowledge - they will make what you want but were not able to provide much in the way of advice on the correct way to go - their cost was about $700 delivered.
So I am still no clearer on what front shaft to replace what I have as I am not prepared to spend in the order of $700 on something that many not work. I am thinking of using a left hand engine mount on the right hand side as I understand it will drop the engine enough on that side to take the rumble out but not yet confirmed - I assume a modifcation on that side of the gearbox mount would also be required.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Yeah, I don't think there is a magic bullet to stop the rumble apart from engaging the centre diff lock and pulling the front shaft out. I may do this on my next run to see what it is like.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Paid about the $550 for a Woodys about 4 years back. Just had it re-done for $400. Some of the nipples weren't that great. Got it from Jeep Connection. Got a re-built one for $500, no changeover, in Dorset Rd 12 months ago.
You have to really grease them well and make sure all the nipples are clear.
No noise from either. 2" lift.
Lifting the diff nose, lowering the RH side of the engine and box, or fitting a STD RR gearbox with the longer bell housing all cure it.... When I put the Nissan Donk in my last 101, just shifting the box back that 100/150mm shut it up. With the Cummins Conversion, the front prop is a lot longer, so Im hoping its something I don't even have to think about. On a STD 101, I'd be looking to drop the nose of the V8 by whatever the axle to oil filter housing clearance will allow and see how that goes. 4.7:1 diffs help it as the prop is not spinning as fast for the same given top speed. Ghost, does yours do it? The auto and LT230 should be longer, so Im guessing yours already has 'bespoke' props under it..... and in theory should be rattle free....![]()
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
Hi Simon,
Oh yes - mine rumbles, especially when you back off on the go fast pedal.
Gav said to me "thats the worst rumble that I have heard in a 101. I think that with the auto, the front prop shaft is on slightly more of an angle."
I am not too experienced with 101s - but when I first experienced it I thought that the prop shaft was trying to explode!!! Lol!
You learn to drive around it but it was interesting.
Its not a complaint about the vehicle more an observation. Gav or Mick might like to add their thoughts...
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
03 130 Td5 Single Cab
06 Discovery 3 Petrol
22 Defender 90 - Full rego
Mmmmm, interesting. I'll b interested to look under it at Melrose! I'm assuming then that it probably has 1.003:1 transfer ratios and the original diff centers. Assuming the V8 is in its original place, it might be worth trying the front prop one spline out of phase.. Cheers for now.![]()
1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB
1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)
'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'
Sitec, on GG's 101, the BW TC and auto seem to put the prop shafts closer the RHS of the vehicle which I think compounds the problems a bit. The front shaft is custom and much longer than a standard 101 unit. I though this may help, but I think the greater compound angle is the cause. I have still got to have a much closer look at it to see if there is anything obviously wrong with it.
It did the same thing as mine too - the spline boot exploded showering grease every where. That didn't matter too much as that was nothing compared to when the rear main seal on the engine let go.... I'm fairly confident nothing much is going to rust under there for a while...
Don't you just love 'em.![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
There's no discernible slop in the splines - it is much better that mine, and the shaft is also much longer. I think the issue is that at the TC the shaft is about an inch further to the drivers side than with the LT95. I will be having a closer look at it during the week to see if I have missed something.
GG - if you get a chance, can you remove the front shaft?![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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