Thread: JayBoRovers 101

Originally Posted by bacicat

I think mine works, but I've never used it. Even on a cold morning when I might need it I find having the windows open for a few minutes works fine.

I know what you mean. After I've hauled myself into the drivers seat my very first action is to slide the window open. I pull the door closed using the sill. My S2a doesn't even have a heater, so having that in the 101 is high class for me. Now with a working fan too ... well, I don't need to buy a Range Rover do I!

Heater fan is now repainted and refitted in the nose tunnel. I replaced three of the rivnuts that the fan unit mounts to so next time I shouldn't need to remove the heater box to be able to get the bolts undone by holding the rivnuts with vice-grips under the heater box.

I measured the resistor mounted to the fan unit and it was correct for the 12V system and I checked it's fed from the switch "low speed" contact. However, when switched to low speed the fan doesn't run. I measured the voltage at the motor and it's only getting about 4V. Switching to high speed the fan runs although only getting about 10.4V. I'll investigate further one day, but in the mean time I'm happy enough to move on knowing the fan works.

Even better is the fact that the heater hoses are now changed and no leaks! I refitted the air ducts in the cabin too. The windscreen demister flexi-tubes were not connected from the heater box but I found them in the box of spares I got with the 101. Be interesting to see how the whole system works now.

I crawled under the 101 with a hammer and screwdriver to investigate the rust in one spot of the chassis that had me concerned. A is normal with rust, it is much worse than appeared. I think the bottom plate of the chassis will require a decent size patch for the front passengers side rear spring hanger where the outrigger connects. I'll see if I can get someone to sort it out for me, as it's way beyond my capabilities. I'll try and get some photo's in daylight.

Check the fan switch - mine does the same thing. It has some crud in it that stops it working on low. I have to wiggle it around to get it to work, but as mentioned, I don't use it, so have never bothered to fix it. Only getting 10.4 volts on hi might be the same thing.

Originally Posted by bacicat

Check the fan switch - mine does the same thing. It has some crud in it that stops it working on low. I have to wiggle it around to get it to work, but as mentioned, I don't use it, so have never bothered to fix it. Only getting 10.4 volts on hi might be the same thing.

I'm way ahead of you. I completely stripped the switch, cleaned all the internal contacts, refitted one of the springs that had come adrift, evicted the spider and then reassembled and checked the contacts with my meter on the external spade connectors. All perfect.

I couldn't wait for daylight, so here's a few photo's with flash. So here's the fan unit refitted into the nose tunnel with a rough spray finish and new coolant hoses:


The resistor cleaned up okay and the resistance measured up at just under 2 Ohms. The manual says 1.8 Ohms for a 12VDC system, so close enough. I need to check the wiring resistance for the low speed to figure out what's happening. Anyway, a spray of matt black has the resistor looking good anyway:


This is the only real rust in the chassis and will need to be taken care of before going over the pits for licensing:


It actually looks like it might have been patched before but only by welding a patch over the rusted chassis section. I'll hope to get the section cut out and a new section of plate welded over it properly. That's what I imagine anyway - I'll have to talk with someone that knows what they're doing and make sure it gets done properly.

Chassis rot behind the front sprigs isn't an uncommon occurrence on vehicles that have lived in the UK. I've repaired a couple there.

I think the chassis is double skinned there, and the problem comes due to rust developing between the plates and causing it to swell up and come out the way you picture.

I usually saw out the rot from the bottom and weld in a fresh bit of 2.5mm steel.

I got to spare an hour or so on the 101 this afternoon so grabbed the angle grinder and attacked! It has come up reasonably well so far. I brushed on some Kill Rust when I was finished just to hold it like this until I can get back to it.


I think I'll need to remove the rear spring hanger to be able to get the front part of the plate off. It seems likely that'll have to happen to be able to weld a new 2.5mm plate on too, so I'll try and get that sorted.

Tomorrow I'll make a booking at the pits for an inspection, probably for early next week. That'll give me one more weekend (means maybe a couple of hours around everything else on my plate) to get things sorted out a little better.

If you jack it up by the chassis at the front the spring shackles should swing forward a little bit, might give you a bit more room.