Garry
Is it only leaking around the shaft for the lever? I wonder if you could have an "O" ring or other seal machined into or added onto the shaft?
Diana
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Garry
Is it only leaking around the shaft for the lever? I wonder if you could have an "O" ring or other seal machined into or added onto the shaft?
Diana
Thanks to every one for your comments - hadn't checked overseas prices - OMG - a break system failure switch, which is just as complex is only $100 here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
I have removed the inards of the valve an put in a bolt with an unthreaded bit on it through the actuator hole with an o ring to seal it - so this has allowed me to sort the rest of the brakes - see my to be posted thread on the general tech section later.
The main issue is that the rear brakes no get full pressure - will be interesting on a wet road in an emergency situation. (but will get sorted later).
In the interim I need to investigate
a.what cars like the rear drumed countys, and the stage 1s used to apportion pressure to the rear brakes
b. getting a new valve - cheaper than listed
c. getting my actuator shaft machined and a sleeve put on it and raiding the brake people's parts bin for internal seals The seal of concern should be common to other brake components - is a flat thick rubber washer so an o ring will not work.
Thanks for all the help - if someone identifies a cheap source for the valve - please let me know.
I was hoping to get the truck registered in time for Cooma but is not likely now:(.
Cheers
Garry
GarryQuote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
After doing a Google search, I would be fronting up at a Brake Service tomorrow. ( Check the second paragraph after the heading "Safety" Mitsubishi Triton – Car Reviews, News & Advice – carsales.com.au - Carsales Editorial If they are used on Tritons, I bet they are used on Mitsubishi Canters and Toyota Dynas, Daihatsu Deltas, Isuzus etc.
Otherwise just put in a union to remove the apportioning valve altogether and carry a few bags of sand to add some weight over the rear axle. You can then sort out the valve after Cooma.
Diana
Thats effectively what I have done - but wasted a week trying to sort why the rear brakes would not bleed. Will have this sorted tomorrow. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ake-shoes.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
If I hadn't been trying to sort the brake bleeding issue I would never have touched the valve - it was seized in the light loaded position. Looking at the design of it, I would anticipate most 101s have seized valves.
Do the series 2 Fc's have something similar - if not, how well do they brake when unloaded.
Cheers
Garry
It's a bu**@R about the week lost. Are the 101 shoes the same as the other LR 11 X 3" shoes?Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
No the S2Bs dont have the apportioning valve. A friend in NZ has just registered his S2a F/C with a 3.5 Rover V8 and LT95 and it was having problems with locking up rear wheels so was knocked back. He was made to fit an apportioning valve before they would pass the vehicle.
Diana
Same shoes - fitting a v8 to a FC would have made the front lighter so the rear brakes should not have been locking up - sounds like the rego nazis at work.
Absolutely the Rego Nazis at work :nazilock:, however Neil was over a barrel, there was no evidence that the vehicle had been certified with the V8 (which was in it before he bought it) and the vehicle did lock up it's rear wheels as they all do.
With the seating position over the front wheels and a significant extension in front of the wheels they have a habit of lifting the rear wheels.
It is the reason that I am happy my tray back is made out of steel to provide some weight when empty. I may look into an apportioning valve myself.
Diana
Garry, something I owned in the past had one too, but I can't remember what it was, it may have been a Transit van. I think morris minis may have had them too??? I'll keep thinking about it and see if I remember.
Fraser
Thanks Fraser - the proportioning side of the valve is fine - it is the rod that goes into the housing that is pitted so letting fluid leak out. If I had a lathe I could turn it down and sleeve it. I will most likely get a machinist to do it for me - I will just have to find a suitable seal.
I am not sure how the valves in other cars work - this one has a spring lever off the rear diff that pushes in the actuator as the rear of the car settles down with increased load. When empty there is virtually no fluid going to the rear brakes.
Cheers
Garry
Garry - that is why you need to talk to Allan Harding - WileE knows him and may be able to introduce you.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Diana