most utes have form of proportioning valve......
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most utes have form of proportioning valve......
Yes i recon that's the type I've seen, thats pretty much how they work, then as the weight transfers forward, the rear lifts and they cut off the braking to the rear to help prevent lock-ups.
I was just thinking if it's the same as the Transit one as I think Transits were imported from the UK(could be an off the shelf Girlock or some other brand), maybe Ford sell them at a different price.....
I don't know him - but I will be able to reach him through the LRC - though I am not a member.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
As I have now bypassed it I have the time to consider some options - my preference is to fix what I have rather than butcher the mountings to fit something else.
Garry
Hi Garry.
I have never had to have my valve apart..
What normally happens with this sort of stuff if the shaft is U/S is to get a new one made from stainless steel.
Take it to a machinist you truss and dont tell them what it is for as they may not want to do it if it is for brakes.
That valve will not match up directly with any thing else on the road as the the shear size of it is much bigger.
Toyota Hi Ace vans use a valve with similar linkage and should be cheap from the wreakers.
The biggest problem will be mounting and the different pipe threads requiring the fittings on the 101 to be changed.
The Hi Ace has similar Axle travel of the 101.
I personally would try and get new parts turned in stainless if possible.
Thanks Ron - I agree but it is good to have options. I bet yours is seized ;). They are of a poor design with respect to protecting the bits ouside of the main housing from corrosion. The shaft gets pitted and when it moves inside the housing when loaded chews out the seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
I will try to get the pitted bit resleeved or a new shaft made.
Cherrs
Garry
Hi Garry,
You might try enquiring availability from this supplier, one of the largest stockists of obsolete & classic brake parts in the UK.:
Classic Car Parts - PowerTrack Ltd - Mail Order Supplier of Lockheed and Girling Brake and Clutch Components For British Car and Commercial 1935 - 1980
There used to be a seller on eBay AU (think they were in S.A.) who had a huge amount of 101 parts, probably acquired at surplus auction. Had a look for them but can't find them - all the 101 stuff was in their store. Someone on here should know them, they were regularly advertising 101 parts. I don't think they would have been mobbed by buyers.
Bob
Thanks Bob - I have sent the UK supplier an e-mail - it will be interesting to see their costs.
Cheers
Garry
Hi Garry......just checked my valve and your right.
I cannot get the piston to move.
The boot is intact.....but the piston doesnt move.
The spring coil linkage is doing all the moving instead.
There is a bit of play in the shaft which holds the spring coil linkage.
I know I can bleed the rear brakes on mine as I replaced the brake fluid with silicon fluid a while back.
I wonder If my brakes will work better if I get it working, as they are fairly hard pedal wise..........I had put this down to series three type brakes working on big wheels and tyres.
Keep us us informed Garry as I may have to go through the same excercise.
Regards Ron
Hey Ron,Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
When I bench tested the valve, very little fluid (virtually none) passes through the valve in the light load position but in the heavy load position there was no restriction and there was full fluid flow.
I suspect that on the road, when unloaded, the rear brakes basically provide minimal braking (none ?) and it is the fronts that do most of the work. When loaded up the valve does its thing and the rear brakes kick in. When loaded and braking heavily with weight transfer to the front - I think this is where the valve comes into its own. There is only about .5cm movement of the piston between fully loaded and unloaded.
Given that these are basically not rebuildable (though I will try) and their cost - somewhere around $350 - $400, I would probably not try pulling yours apart - I know it will start leaking. I would try removing the rubber boot and with pilers pull the piston out as far as it goes and clean the exposed bit as best you can and and grease with brake fluid compatible grease and reinstal the boot. This piston needs to be included in the servicing schedule - if dirt was removed every 6 months or 10000 k it would work all the time.
My work around has failed - I finally got pressure in my brakes this afternoon but I then blew the o rings in my workaround. I removed the inards of the valve and replaced the piston this a bolt with 0 rings to seal it but they were not up too it. I am getting a joiner made tomorrow to bypass it all together - at least I will have brakes and I will sort the valve later.
As everyone has said - bleeding a 101 is a real PITA. I am moving on to other things for a while - hey today I found out my CDL does actually work - no light indications but I know it locks :). The only indicator lights that work is the ignition - I haven't got to the electrics yet.
Garry
Garry try quad rings as they are a straight swap for O rings........... quad rings are a bit harder to find.