Thread: Come On Guys

101 Tips
If freezing cold in the middle of winter in the high country
Un zip the gear shift boot........poor mans heater

Stop corrosion in the rear inner guard support tubes drill a hole in the botom of them like in the photo and flush the mud out.
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Buy a cheap Indian backpack from the army disposals as they have the right sort of buckel and strap to use on the shovel and pick handle holder just cut them off the backpack and throw away as they are cheap enough.
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When I pulled a part the tie rod ends to inspect them I realised they can be fitted with a grease nipple.
The drag link rod ends are sealed, but can be fitted with a grease nipple the same way.........just make sure you drill in the middle .
Use a small 6mm grease nipple.
A worth while improvement in the steering has been made ,
Note it may take a while for the grease to get to the lower part of the joint.
A 16mm ID x 34mmOD tie rod end boots can be purchased cheaply from any auto parts store.
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When bogged down to the diffs and you have a model without a winch.
Just slide out the quick release side panels from the rear body......Four in total.
Place one infront of each tyre and drive over them like Maxtracs.
Of cause this is one use.
When you are finish and have your 101 out of the bog you have better use it to run and hide as your fellow 101 mates will track you down and shoot you.

Cooee and myself have compared notes.
My 101 with standard bar treads (35 inch ) and a high ratio transfercase in overdrive runs 100kph at 3000 rpm.
Cooees 101 with standard ratio trasfercase and overdrive with oversize 38 inch tyres runs.....100kph at 3000 rpm.

That would seem about right - I have some high speed gears to put in my tfr case later but would also like a overdrive if I can find one. Certainly up to 100kph, even a 101 should be able to pull at less than 3000 rpm - though my 3.9 disco was not all that great above 3000 in 5th gear.

Ron since you have connected a cable up your to your O/d how have you found the all round drivability out on the road with you O/d on in fourth gear and with O/d on, how is third when you have too change down - too low or too high or just right.

Cooee got great fuel economy driving from Qld to Cooma and back - he said he got about 17mpg sitting on 90-100 which is good - though he did say it was worse in hills as you would expect.

I only use the overdrive in top gear as I do not want to kill it as they are hard to find at the right price and some of the bearings etc used inside them you can not get.
I dont know the the mileage yet as I have done no long trips or have not been checking.
90 kph seems to be the sweet spot for the overdrive.
There is no pulling power in the overdrive.........it is a flat highway cruising gear.
100 kph cruise is possible if the road is flat enough and no head wind.
My gear shift for the overdrive is freeing up now is it is easier to use.
The big difference is a reduction of noise at highway speeds.
It is worth while to do and fit.
A round town or local trips I dont use the overdrive at all.
On long trips I am going to carry the old transfer case drive gear and circlip, with circlip pliers as a back up if the fairey overdrive fails, so a road side fitment can take place.

Filled my 101 with LPG the other day and noted the small tank between the chassis rails holds 60 litres from the bowser.
This gets me about 160 to 200 ks before it runs out.
I will expect slightly more with the overdrive now on long trips.
I have not worked out if this is good or bad and I know my odd ball LPG fit up is not working to its full potenuall and one of these days I will finish it off.
I am happy with this as on the eastern half of Australia there is enough LPG servos around to ensure I do not have to use petrol if I dont want to.
The petrol is nothing more than a back up now and for hard pulling up hills.
I add a bit of two stroke oil to the petrol to help the valves a bit as both the unleaded fuel and lpg are hard on valves.
Buying a twenty litre drum of the cheapest no name two stroke oil is more cost effective than a normal fuel upper cylinder lubricant.........and it can be cheap and narsty as it is not as important for lubrication like a two stroke motor.
I run about 150 to 200 to one.
I do this on all my older engines now and even my TDI defender since the sulphur lubricant has been taken out of diesel.
Ron

So I take it that with O/D off there is no problem with the high speed tfr case gears in normal driving - what about first - is it a bit high and what about 4th driving around ? Does your engine handle it OK at around 90-100k. I was surprised how high first and reverse is - I was expecting them to be lower and there does seem to be a gap to second - but then while my engine does run sweet and does not blow smoke I really do not know what its condition is. Even when on choke, I need lots of revs to back up my drive and when driving around the block second will not pull when changing up going up the local hills - but then I have never run it long enough to get to operating temperature so that may be the issue.

My old LPG system seems to be working great with the engine running smoothly except on changeover. I have one of these fitted

Flashlube fuel additives Synthetic lubricants for the automotive industry

and it has been fitted for 16 years. It feeds into the vacuum balance pipe between the carbies and drips at the rate of 1cc per litre of fuel so works out about 1.5c per litre of fuel used. It does save mucking around with the 2 stroke. The Rover engine probably doesn't need it but I would rather be sure - particularly for the low cost. I am going to put one on my series 1 as well.

I started removing the bits and pieces attached to the rear X member as it is badly rusted in some spots. I can see how they rust - all the box sections are full of dirt. What is a worry - I found that most of the high tensile bolts that hold things like the rear tow points and the pintle hook were rusted 3/4 of the way through and just snapped when I put the rattle gun on them to undo - so something to check from time to time.

And backing onto the ramps I misjudged the little bit of rear overhang and the height and have squashed the guttering in my house - water can still flow but I was surprised how easily it crumbled.

Garry

2nd gear normal starting.
!st gear only used for heavy load start or starting off on a steep hill.
First gear is what I normally use off road.
I only use low range if I am fair dinkcum off road.
I drive my 101 as a three speed for normal around town driving.
Garry is your 101 fitted with high ratio diffs.
If you need to use first gear all the time to start off it must be.
If your 101 is going well you should be able supprize a toyota Landcruiser owner looking at the 101 at the traffic lights by burning them off up to 80 kph.
Reverse is slightly higher than first.....but no problems in backing the trailer in the drive way.
When towing 2.5 tonne of boat first gear starts are no problem and no clutch slipping.
I am happy with this as it is good all round ......and the overdrive just is cream on top.
My 101 according to the previous owner with 4.47 diffs fitted and standard transfer case ratios was a dog and first gear starts was the norm.
Third gear was used alot to get the thing again going up slight hills as top had no pulling power , just like the overdrive has now.
The difference is now I can go down only half a gear to get a bit of extra zip.

Interesting - I thought the diffs were standard - I will have too check next weekend - maybe my tfr case has already got the high speed gears in it - I had a couple of sets in the spares - at least one is the high speed ones. Or maybe with my brake problems I just have then brakes adjusted up too much - I will get my (used) drums this week - I hope they are not too worn and will sort this aspect out next weekend.

I did adjust the handbrake up - so maybe a little too much.

Once I have these sorted and I can properly road test the truck I will be able to sort this other stuff out.

Garry