Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30

Thread: Starter and Hand Cranking

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Garry I dont know if the 24 and 12 volt starters are similar.(factory items)
    I had replaced my range rover item which was fitted after the 12 volt conversion.
    Ashdowns have a 12 volt reduction drive replacement P/N 01-36802 1.4 kw.
    I have fitted one of these and they work well with better pinion enguagement too.
    A good auto electrican could swap the motor for a 24 volt item as it is a Nippon denso type starter.
    I dont know if the above is worth while and if the factory 24volt starter is a good design or not.
    The 12volt starters are easy to drop out.
    I can take my spare 12 volt starter on the trip coming up as a back up.
    Yes the 24volts will not do it any good but it will work for emergency purposes and if doesnt matter if it cooks.

  2. #12
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,509
    Total Downloaded
    0
    A 12v starter will work perfectly well on 24v, and is unlikely to be damaged if the engine starts readily. I have seen a 6v starter used long term on a 12v system without any problems.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have a crank handle on the front of my 101.
    My crank handle is longer than the standard 101 item as it has to go through the bull bar.
    This crank handle I made.
    I was lucky enough to find two ex army 2a crank handles.
    The drive dog is the same is the series rovers and is just a pin on the end of the crank handle.
    I cut the end off one crank handle and welded it on to the end of the other making a crank handle with a long sharft to suit the 101.
    Dont bother trying to crank a motor with a SU or CD stormberg as the the way the carbies works makes this dificult.
    Tow start is the way to go if the starter fails.
    You can hand start some very big motors.....it just depends on the motor.
    In fact I had a old Gyrocopter with a volkswagon motor and CD stromberg carby on it and the only method to start it was on the propellor.
    When it was hot it was a ****
    I had a G60 nissan patrol with 4 litre P40 motor in it and for six months I started it every day on the crank to go to and from work.....first time every time .
    ( I was young and poor at the time)
    The crank on a 101 is useful for working on the motor and if buy yourself stuck in a creek with a wet motor , you can always drop the sparkplugs and crank your self out using the PTO winch.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Two things to remember.
    The crankhandle shaft is a unusual size and therefore you need to find the 2a crank handles as you will have trouble buying the right size steel stock.
    Check the starter relay.
    On the 101 there is a relay for the starter solenoid.
    I bypassed mine as it gave trouble and have not fixed it as it works fine (starter) by passed and just off the ignition switch.
    That relay is a big heavy duty thing in the space up between the drivers seat and the spare wheel and accessed via the engine bay.(If Garry thinks under the dash board is hard wait until you try this)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0





    <a href="http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=003-4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/003-4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Garry I just read the the post on the technical section.
    Sounds like a stuffed ring gear or if you are lucky a problem with the starter drive.
    If the starter is back in the way to check what is what is by moving the engine a quarter of a turn or a little bit less by hand before starting it with the starter.
    If it works every time with out the noise by doing this , then it is the ring gear.
    A motor will naturally stop in two or three places all the time and therefore this is where the ring gear wears the most.
    By slightly moving the motor around a little bit you will expose the starter pinion gear to a less worn part of the ring gear.
    With the starter out you should be able to see the wear in the ring gear by using a mirror and turn the motor over a bit at a time to check all of it .
    You should see the slightly more worn areas due to the motor stopping in the same places all the time.
    The 24 volt starter I would think would be very different from the 12 volt items as it should be fully suppressed.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well I am going to give it a go tonight and see if the beastie will roar into life on the handle.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The time as I type is 7.17 pm.
    I last used my 101 at 5.00 pm today.
    So the motor was not stone cold , but just warm.
    No choke or throttle.
    It started with in a quarter of a swing every time for more that six times without fail.
    So there you go.....the things we learn.
    A completely cold motor would be a different story.
    Using the lengthen 2a crank handle shows the handle could do with a bit more lenght in the swing of the handle to over come the drag of the 8 jugs.
    I was very very surprised.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    That is great news Ron - I was thinking of the crank handle as a back up if I continued to have starter issues.

    However all is well. The ring gear and the starter gear are a bit worn but not excessively so. There is evidence of the starter gear crashing into the ring gear but no major damage. As I hoped, the issue is a build up of muck and dirty connections and the starter was not getting enough oomph to properly engage the ring gear.

    I took the lot out, put in the new solenoid and cleaned up the mechanical side of the of the starter. As well, I cleaned up all the electrical side inside (brushes and armature) and all the contacts with a wire brush. Also cleaned up the battery cables and everything else and put lanotec on everything electrical.

    When I tested the starter back in - the cold engine fired first turn (I have found running the fuel pump for 20 secs before start makes the engine fire first go). I tried the start a few more times and all is OK. I guess another issue of having a vehicle stored outside in the weather for eight years without it being used.

    Previously I mentioned a 12v push switch on the console that I had no idea what it was about. The LPG man has advised that this is the LPG cold start button. The switch operates a valve in the passenger wheel well that fires a shot of LPG direct into the air intact to allow the engine to start on LPG when cold. I had been working under the assumption that my system was a start on petrol and switch. The LPG guy also advised me that even though I do not have a compliance plate, I will not have to go over the pits or get an identity check for ACT registration. When he does the LPG certification he will also be able to do a roadworthy so staying right away from the autocrats at the registry office. That is a load off my mind.

    I keep on finding little things - the ammeter doesn't work bit the ignition light does so that will not be an issue at the moment. I also found I did not have an oil pressure switch and that is why the light did not work. I have a cheap oil pressure gauge in now and will fix the oil light later when I am on the road.

    Hopefully no more surprises.

    Garry
    Last edited by 101RRS; 9th July 2009 at 12:11 AM. Reason: Poor spelling
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!