Progress report.

**101 Ron** · 4th July 2011, 05:13 PM

I have a master cylinder kit which I got from AJ and it was cheap too..
( master cylinder is the same as a Jenson Intercepter )
The master cylinder only has Two seals which do any thing.
One is a quad ring which is nothing special and a normal type piston seal.
My master cylinder already has a stainless seleeve in it.
I will see if I can up grade the quad ring to a Viton one.

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 4th July 2011, 06:34 PM

Are the 101's dual circuit braking systems?

**101 Ron** · 4th July 2011, 08:49 PM

They are dual circult.

**101RRS** · 5th July 2011, 03:16 PM

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

You can get the kits from the 101 club.
I heard all the seals were readily available except one.

For the modified series 3 MC which they also sell.

**101 Ron** · 10th July 2011, 07:22 PM

The master cylinder kit sold by AJ will cause the master cylinder to transfer fluid from one reservior to the other as the seal supplied is not up the the job.
It barely protudes enough to seal against the cylinder bore.
I have fitted a normal quad ring from a grab kit as this is what came out of my master cylinder and it gave no real problems.

The quad ring is slightly thicker and protudes more.
You should just be able to see it in the above pics.

**101 Ron** · 19th January 2014, 05:53 PM

I though I would catch up on some maintance with my 101 .........get the old girl in shape for the trip to Corowa.
My over drive has been still leaking oil on longer highway high speed trips.
I end up with a film of oil over the back diff.
About three years ago I did a alloy cover over the lay shaft on the over drive, this reduced the problem.
Another source of leaks from the overdrive is the selector shaft.
It is open to the outside world at both ends of the shaft.
I have managed to replace the O rings on this shaft whisle still bolted to the vehicle.
I was originally removing the shaft to turn O ring grooves in it and found they did it during manufacture.
The O rings go hard with age......most overdrives are 30 years old.
The first pic shows the overdrive with the previous alloy cap in place.

This second pic show one end of the leaking selector shaft.
[URL=http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps15535f8a.jpg.html]

**101 Ron** · 19th January 2014, 05:58 PM

The next pic is general layout with floor plate removed.
Note steel plate with 4 bolts on the top of the overdrive.

**101 Ron** · 19th January 2014, 06:05 PM

the next pic shows the overdrive with the plate removed.
Note the selector shaft running though the overdrive , the selector fork with a clamping bolt on the selector shaft and the small black hole to the bottom of the selector shaft in the alloy housing.
That small black hole has a allen grub screw which needs to be removed.(grub screw stops selector shaft from travelling too far)
Also remove the a clamping bolt from the selector shaft.
( don't drop or lose anything or your in deep trouble)

**101 Ron** · 19th January 2014, 06:09 PM

pics showing allen head grub screw and selector fork clamping bolt removed.

**101 Ron** · 19th January 2014, 06:14 PM

Now the trick is using a screw driver though the end of selector shaft draw it out wards to the rear of the vehicle.
You Do Not Remove It Completely............only enough to fit new Orings.
If you remove the selector shaft or pull it back too far you will loose the detent spring and ball still pressing on the selector shaft.
moving it back just enough to install a New O ring on the shaft on the inside of the overdrive.( the detent ball ,spring and allen head plug comes up from the bottom of the overdrive housing out of sight)

Thread: Progress report.

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