Very pretty...... or should that be looks very original.
The way it should be!![]()
DONE! Yes its hollow at this stage.Re gearbox colour Every LT95 until yours (that I have or have seen) were unpainted alloy. I'd be getting out the quick-strip and high pressure water blaster before I put it back together.
Now I should not be subjected to distressing comments like "pretty red transmission........"
The therapy has been difficult and expensive (bourbons not cheap!), I expected post traumatic stress disorder to set in until I heard about Ron's colour coded plugs
Never saw any in a Naval vehicle, boat or aircraft painted! There are some bronze plugs that could do with a good dose of Brasso though!but some miltiary services painted them.
Cheers,
Peter
Very pretty...... or should that be looks very original.
The way it should be!![]()
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
A good New Year to all.
I wrote a few notes on CanDo's gearbox indigestion to read when i got back. Thought I might share them since is fairly quiet around here at present.
Things to remember about LT95 Gearboxes after pulling my 101 and a spare RR one apart.
1. You can pull one out of a 101 in less than 2 hours by yourself.
2. Both boxes showed signs of moisture ingress e.g. slight surface rust on some gear parts. Possibly from sitting for longer periods unused, not a big issue.
3. With lack of or low gear box oil, damage will occur rapidly.
4. Tighten the oil pump cover correctly and use sealant on the gaskets. This is why the oil drained from mine.
5. Do not use heavier oil than SAE 30 or equivalent in the gearbox as it could shear the original Bakelite oil pump shaft especially in colder weather.
6. Replace the oil pump gears and shaft with the metal after market ones.
7. Oil leaking into the transfer case can be from a worn gearbox main-shaft rear oil seal. It is also highly likely a faulty o-ring on the reverse shaft could cause this. If so leakage could occur even when not in use, especially if left standing for long periods. The reverse shaft o-ring could be changed in car fairly easily.
8. When fitting an OD the OD drive cog should be fitted using the instruction for fitting the standard main-shaft transfer gear (end float - 2 thou max).
9. The spare RR box had a lot of grunge in it, the 101 one also had much lesser signs of similar contamination. This grunge had blocked the intermediate shaft oil-ways and the RR intermediate shaft was well on its way to disintegration. See Pics below.
10. The intermediate shaft lubrication is mostly by gravity. The oil baffle attached to the top transfer box cover catches the oil and drains it down two ‘V’ cutouts in the casing and these feed down to the two larger holes in the intermediate shaft. Four smaller holes in the intermediate shaft output the oil to the thrust washers.
11. The intermediate shaft could be checked for blockages or even cleaned in-car by pulling off the transfer box top cover and then removing the centre grub screw in the external end of the intermediate shaft. I would use carby cleaner spray initially and then syringes.
12. The intermediate shaft has four x 3 mm thrust washers. This standard setup does not let Hi and Low range gears to engage 100%. Use the after market 3.3, 2.7, 2, 4 mm ones (front to rear) (available from Anthony) to set this up correctly.
13. Both centre diff pre-loads were not as per specifications. Bad workmanship in the 101 and possibly wear in the RR.
14. Worst sign of ‘fair wear and tear’ in the original 101 box was on the front output shaft (spline that fits into the centre diff). Possibly from the front shaft vibration problems??
15. Look after your LT95 so you do not have to learn this stuff.
16. Ron, don’t forget to polish the brassware drain plugs.
Now I just have to get it back together
Cheers,
Peter
[
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REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Garry,
Not really sure, it was more an assumption, I shouldn't do that.The RR gearbox was definitely over full so it may be that way.
I had a mod explained to me to overcome the problem where you drill and tap the respective drain plugs and connect a balance pipe, sounded feasible.
Peter
When designing the LT95 the obvious idea would have been to design it so that the gearbox and tfr case use the same oil with a small balance hole between the two - too easy.
Did you find a dip stick on either of your gearboxes. The 101 parts book describes a dip stick and the 101 club has them in their parts list but I do not have one in either my 101 LT95 or the stage 1 LT95.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Hi Gary
The dip stick goes in the same hole as the reverse light switch on the top of the gearbox. 101's didn't have reversing lights but I'm guessing the Australian army fitted them as most of the ex Australian ones I've seen have the same type fitted.
Cheers
Dave
the reason for all your heart ache has been the snapped shaft on the oil pump.
the military boxes now have a metal one in them
the wrong oil takes them out quickly but occasionally they just let go.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Peter,
I have had the balance pipe installed on my SIII Stage 1. It was installed because the seal on the shaft between the transfer case and gearbox was allowing oil to transfer from the transfer case to the gearbox (apparently a common fault). I was forever draining the gearbox and topping up the transfer case. Well, the balance pipe worked.
The way it was done on mine was the level plugs were replaced with plugs with nipples and connected with a rubber pipe. I'll post photo's at a more reasonable hour if requested.
regards
Mick
Garry, they are not fitted but this is where it would go. About 10 mm of alloy to drill through.
Mick, glad to hear oil balance works well, some pics would be appreciated.
Blknight, the metal oil pump gears and shaft are the go, was told they only sell these ones now. Have a set ready to fit when I get that far, about $60.
Peter
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