cost is my problem
maby il have to make do with a detroit or a LSDboth are still better then what i have now
A Disco rear end is weak in a Disco, no matter about a 110.
Fit a locked, shaved Salisbury:
A Disco rear will let you down when you need it the most. My Sals is less than 10mm lower than the front diff, and a hell of a lot stronger than a Rover diff and axles.
Do it once, do it right
1995 Defender 110 300TDI :D
1954 86" Series 1 Automatic :eek:
Ex '66 109" flat deck, '82 109" 3 door, '89 110 CSW V8, '74 Range Rover, '66 88" soft top, '78 88" soft top, '95 Disco ES V8, '88 Surf, '90 Surf, '84 V8 Surf, '91 Vitara.
cost is my problem
maby il have to make do with a detroit or a LSDboth are still better then what i have now
Clarification:
RD128 (Rover type) and RD138 (P38A) are not interchangeable due to the ring gear offset. The axle splines are the same and ring gear ID, bolt pattern, bearings, etc are common. P38A has a much larger flange diameter to get some extra support behind the ring gear to try to combat the flex. I can't say if it works or not.
Another very common mod in competition at the moment is to buy a Hilux third member and Hilux Air Locker (RD132) and swap a Land Rover gear set into the diff (direct swap in new ARB diffs), and bolt it up to the banjo (ratios matched to the front - obviously). You will double the ring and pinion strength and still be able to run Rover/Maxi shafts.
-daniel
AIR LOCKER
Great info!! Did you go through a few disco diffs before switching to the Sals?
Fit a cast or heavy plated diff cover and you'll prevent any oil leaks occurring from peeling the tin one on a rock.
I have a feeling it strengthens the centre too, especially if you use something like Loctite 518 to effectively bond it the the centre.
The downside is less oil cooling/more heat retained, so use an 80W-140 GL5 oil.
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