Thread: Puma Transfer Case wear metals high

Just as a further update, I spoke with Hastings Deering lab today regarding the wear metals, and these are their comments...

1. Extremely high copper & tin reflect wear to bronze thrust washers or bushes
2. High iron is from wear on gear teeth
3. Case hardening on bearings has started to wear off (chrome)
4. Extraneous contaminants are not significant. So dust entry is not the problem
5. Low oil viscosity indicates thermal degradation of the oil. That is consistent with my observations of the transfer running too hot, from brand new.
6. The visible wear metals of 2-3mm size are unacceptable and indicate a problem.

The point mentioning all this is that if you have a Puma, and the floor and seat box panels get pretty hot on a long run, it's possible you may have a problem similar to mine.

At any rate, it's worth checking the quality of the transfer case oil at every service. The oil change period is down for 80,000kms, which is too long for me to feel comfortable with. And this one was bad at 40,000km on the oil. )The lab tech has found that for his 80 Series cruiser, 20,000km in optimal for the transfer case.)

I suppose now the challenge will be to convince Land Rover that this is outside the "normal range" (a phrase I've heard a couple of times) so that :

1. Your transfer case is fixed and
2. The recommended service interval is shortened for all vehicles. After all the engine oil change interval for Australian Defenders has been reduced from 20k to (in my case 12k).

I have noticed on long runs that the front seat box gets hot but I've put that down to the exhaust location.

Could you post up your oil brand and type, and wear metal numbers please ?
Oh, and the lab doing the testing (or just PM me if you want to )

4. Extraneous contaminants are not significant. So dust entry is not the problem

Hmm, silicon may be an anti-foamant in the oil, but is usually more than likely straight out dirt/dust, and if so, this would be where your high wear metals are coming from.
The only way to know is test a virgin sample and compare to your test results.
FWIW I feel 80,000km is far too far, even on premium lubes for what most vehicles are asked to do as the sump capacity of the t/case is limited.
It could also be dirty oil, it wouldn't be the first time either

Check the breather to make sure it hasn't come adrift and eliminate it s a source of dirt.

FWIW I've found the labs less than ideal at interpreting results, they are good for raw data, but that's about it, and even then they can cock up.

Have you used any of your company's anti-wear additives in it?

One thing to remember is you only have 40K on it so parts are wearing in so all the oil will show metal.When you say the driveline is chattering with the diff locked are you on a hard surface when that happens?,4wd's will protest when they are driven in 4wd when they don't need to be. Pat

Do Puma's still run the LT230 T/C?. Pat

This is the description of the TC from the workshop manual:

Links and Downloads Manager - Australian Land Rover Owners

I have assumed that it is the LT 230 but others may have a more informed view. I gave away my Rave with the Disco so can't compare.

Originally Posted by Brid

[snip]
I changed to a 75W140 synthetic on dropping the dirty oil, and on my monthly 2000km trip to Central Qld the temperature was a lot cooler, although the ambients were cooler too.

[snip]

Brid

An xW-140 should actually run hotter than decent synthetic xW-90, just simple drag.

While an xW-140 would be ok in summer here, if you want to split the difference use an xW-110 (although not too many blenders blend this grade yet) but a good synthetic 75W-90 should run the coolest of all. (and proven in both racing and trucking)