Thread: Fixed 02 Defender Doors

Land that was an interesting read... Graphite powder so are you in effect leaving the lock dry and utilising the graphite as a lubricant ?
what effects/benefits would you get from looking at lighter greases/lubes such as copper grease (not enough body is my guess) over the lubed for life stuff the factory applies, have you looked at tradional lubes prior to trying out the powder ?

Hi Lardy.
I'll be honest , I did not try any other lubes.
I was keen to get them working well asap.
Must admit , that I didn't put as much graphite powder in the drivers door and that did not work as well as the passsenger door one I did pump full of graphite.
Have since gone back today and put more graphite in the drivers and Mr Sheen.
Seems to have done the job.
Will know tomorrow morning when it's cold.
Both the graphite and the Mr Sheen tips were given to me by an older locksmith.

Another good fix for the cold doors would be to leave Melbourne!

But then we would have to eat crap food , drink crap coffee and miss out on all this culture

Originally Posted by land864

But then we would have to eat crap food , drink crap coffee and miss out on all this culture

I am with ya on that ...why do I live in Perth again?
forgot to add that flat whites mainly come in the saucer in Perth I think its a regional slant on service

Try some PTFE spray lube in your locks instead of graphite. It has one of the lowest friction coefficients of any known solid. (Trade name 'Teflon') It's also good on anything needing lube without the sticking properties of grease or oil. Don.

well as i posted a 'fix' a while ago.. and land864 took it a bit further..

i followed suit today and did a bit of analysis while doing it.

i have only done the drivers side front and rear (what an interesting job the front doors are. glass out, glass channels nearly out.) Basically i took the locks out, fully degreased them with heavy duty stuff and then had to scrape the grease off that had turned to glue type stuff also. I then hosed them out (it was that spray off engine degreaser) made sure they were clean and then hosed them out with rp7. fitted everything back in and found the rattle in the drivers door (all the bolts were loose on the inner panel, hooray i now have a quiet door) adjusted all the lock rods etc put it all back together and it worked lovely.. until i finished up and the remote locking wouldnt work. it locked then unlocked itself and then sounded the alarm. stripped the trip back off and adjusted the central locking rod.. all was good.

Did the same to the back door, but much easier job there. analysed the problem that is as follows.

As the latch pin enters the latch it rolls the latch mechanism round to the 1st locking point then the second. the catch at the top of the locking pin entry that locks each stage moved very very slowly as it was gummed up. so it was possible first thing in the morning for the door to be shut and bounce back fully open before that catch had reacted. all cleaned and lubed it works well. The grease they use must be good for pommy conditions but must harden over here with age.

just got to do the passenger side now. will let you know how it goes.

Worth doing as genuine latches are $200+ each, all for the sake of some crap grease!

Steve

And the result is.... IT WORKS! hooray... cold morning and no issues. Only problem now is that Rach cant shut her door first time so i have to do that as soon as!

I'm going to give this a go I think! Will report back.