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Thread: Which front springs for 110?

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Thanks Newhue, I have no chances of getting my D110 onto a weigh bridge so I will have to work it out in a simple/basic way.

    I measured my bump stop clearence, it is simply awfull, shame on me........ anyways, here it goes:

    Front drivers side (the other side compared to Australia): 47mmm
    Front passenger side: 40mm (you can clearly see it has dropped more on this side without even measuring it).
    Rear, both sides: 110mm

    It takes 2 or 3 complete strokes of the high lift jack to in the front to get my D110 levelled, it is that bad, looks awafull.

    Regarding weight in the front: I have a custom (locally) made aluminium alloy front bumper which weighs only 13 kgs and a 9500lb Milemarker electric winch with synthetic rope that must weigh around 35 kgs at the most. I imagine my front is heavier than standard but not THAT much heavier because of the synthetic rope and the aluminium bumper.

    Appart from that my 2.8TGV engine weighs 208kgs, only 3 kilos more than a 300Tdi. I do not know how much heavier than a Td5 engine (my D110 used to be a Td5) but I believe the engine does not make any significant engine.

    What do you think? Should the D130 springs be enough or should I go for firmer OME's?

    Cheers and thanks for the help from that side of the world!
    Santiago, Argentina

  2. #72
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    Hmm perhaps someone can report what a TD5 weighs, but I'd imagine similar to a 300.
    It looks like the bum has drooped a bit as well. Are looking at redoing each corner or just the front.
    For the front I'd say a set of genuine 130 coils would do but it may lift the nose a bit. You may have to do the rear, where some new std 110 would do the job.
    This is assuming your set up is general duties. The 130 coils take a steel bar and winch well. Given you have an alloy bar I think you'll be fine.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  3. #73
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    Mate, you don't want more rate, just a longer free length.

    Like Jason I run a nominal 17" free length, (17.2" actual length when new) 220lb/in front spring and have a touch over 100mm between the bump stops ATM with an ARB bull bar and Warn XD winch with wire cable.
    IIRC I used to have around 65mm between the stops with the 225lb/15.5" 130 HD springs.
    The 40mm you have between the stops is pretty low, I'd guess you'll be bottoming out a lot on road, my bump stops and pads are polished from just running around on bitumen roads.


    You could even go softer in the rate and longer in the spring to get a better ride but your dampers will restrict the droop you can use.

  4. #74
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    Angry

    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    Hmm perhaps someone can report what a TD5 weighs, but I'd imagine similar to a 300.
    It looks like the bum has drooped a bit as well. Are looking at redoing each corner or just the front.
    For the front I'd say a set of genuine 130 coils would do but it may lift the nose a bit. You may have to do the rear, where some new std 110 would do the job.
    This is assuming your set up is general duties. The 130 coils take a steel bar and winch well. Given you have an alloy bar I think you'll be fine.
    Hello Newhue,

    Thanks for your advice. In the rear I have genuine standard D110 springs which I bought brand new and installed +/- 3 years ago. Despite they may have dropped a little bit I will make them last longer because.......guess what is the price we pay in Argentina for genuine Land Rover springs......+/- 215U$ EACH SPRING. Yes there is no mistake. In the UK they may be cheap buy down here genuine LR springs are a rip-off (or however you spell it). This is the reason why I installed local-made front "heavy duty" springs just 18 months ago and now my bump stop clearance is just 4 cms.......

    By the way, my general suspension set-up is not original, it has been lifted 3.3 cms. However the bump stops and the dampers upper link to the chassis have been corrected accordingly so perhaps it is OK to say my setup is not heavily modified.
    Thanks!
    Cheers
    Santiago

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Mate, you don't want more rate, just a longer free length.

    Like Jason I run a nominal 17" free length, (17.2" actual length when new) 220lb/in front spring and have a touch over 100mm between the bump stops ATM with an ARB bull bar and Warn XD winch with wire cable.
    IIRC I used to have around 65mm between the stops with the 225lb/15.5" 130 HD springs.
    The 40mm you have between the stops is pretty low, I'd guess you'll be bottoming out a lot on road, my bump stops and pads are polished from just running around on bitumen roads.


    You could even go softer in the rate and longer in the spring to get a better ride but your dampers will restrict the droop you can use.
    Wow, you've changed the perspective quite a bit.......if you are correct Rick the question is how would you go about buying longer springs of a +/- 220lbs/inch rate in Australia (or the UK or the US)? Can you buy them off-the -shelf or do you need to have them made just for you?

    MANY thanks
    Cheers,
    Stgo

  6. #76
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    I just got rear springs made at one of our local spring makers. I just tell him what I want and he makes them! Cheaper than the normal after market suppliers as well and you can get exactly what you want which is great.

    I am just about to go and see him again to make another set of front springs for me.

    Do you have any local spring makers over there ??

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    i keep rabbiting on about how I had 130 front springs in my defender (with rear 130 inners) when I bought it and the articulation was useless. worse than my 105 toyota.

    then I put standard 110 progressive front springs back in it and remove the rear inners and put in polyairs. then the articulation was what I expected.



    Tve got the ARB bar and XD9000 winch on front and with the std defender spring the carts stance was decidedly nose down, I changed to synthetic rope and took some fruit off which helped a little.

    I decided to try some King KRFS-03 (standard) front springs, non progressive, 14" free length. According to the King blurb they will raise the car about 1" .

    Pic below shows king next to std 110 front spring



    The King springs do have a left & right.

    Actually the springs are better than I expected, The car sits level, It actually came up more than an inch in the front, more like 1 1/2" I hope it settles a bit. The ride is actually noticebly better, The old springs must have been knackered as the weaker progressive part of the coil was alsways squashed together when the car was sitting level.

    Artticulation is not compromised, still just as good as the std 110 springs

    Full droop, downward movement is stopped by the std length Bilstein


    Full compression, car parked with axles articulated, would have a little more to go on a level shock load as bump is just touching


    The car is set up as an everyday driver (its my work vehicle) and caravan tug / tourer.

  8. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by SG1 View Post
    Wow, you've changed the perspective quite a bit.......if you are correct Rick the question is how would you go about buying longer springs of a +/- 220lbs/inch rate in Australia (or the UK or the US)? Can you buy them off-the -shelf or do you need to have them made just for you?

    MANY thanks
    Cheers,
    Stgo
    I used to get springs wound to my specs, any spring maker will do that but the 220lb/in-17" ones are off the shelf from LRA here in Oz (made by Browns Springs)

    Look around, maybe ask some people who race cars who and where they buy their springs as you'll be able to get some wound to the free length you want.

    Santiago, what springs do you have ATM ?
    Can you work out the paint splashes ?

  9. #79
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    I used to get springs wound to my specs, any spring maker will do that but the 220lb/in-17" ones are off the shelf from LRA here in Oz (made by Browns Springs)

    Look around, maybe ask some people who race cars who and where they buy their springs as you'll be able to get some wound to the free length you want.

    Santiago, what springs do you have ATM ?
    Can you work out the paint splashes ?
    Browns springs is where I go !

  10. #80
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    Feb 2010
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    Argentina
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitdist View Post
    I just got rear springs made at one of our local spring makers. I just tell him what I want and he makes them! Cheaper than the normal after market suppliers as well and you can get exactly what you want which is great.

    I am just about to go and see him again to make another set of front springs for me.

    Do you have any local spring makers over there ??
    Yes, we have a company which makes springs for LR Defenders. I may check if there is a chance to have any done as per my specifications. The problem is it is the same company which builds the ones I have in the front now and I do not trust the quality of their steel since mine have sagged significantly in just 18 months despite they were supposed to be "Heavy Duty" (whatever that means) and despite the front of my D110 is not that heavy.

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