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Thread: Gear Change Clunk

  1. #1
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    Gear Change Clunk

    HI

    Just a question on the clunkiness of gear changes in my 08 Defender. If I really nurse the uptake of the clutch and apply accelerator very carefully , no clunk from the rear.

    However , with a normal approach of what I would say is normal speed gear changes ( It doesn't happen on other Manual cars I drive) I can't seem to avoid the clunking sound as the gear changes. Mainly on lower gears when getting going , but can happen acorss the range at any time if I'm not concsiously thining about it.

    With all the specific issues that these cars can be expereinecing , I am a little concerned that this may be a recall job ( under warranty etc ) or does this exist on all Defenders of that type.

    Any suggestions.

    D

  2. #2
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    The classic problem is the a frame ball joint - just did mine and fixed the problem...

    But would it shag out so quick with yours been an 08 model? The joint I changed was probably the original from 1985.

    Could it be a problem with the electronic throttle ????

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by danske View Post
    HI

    With all the specific issues that these cars can be expereinecing , I am a little concerned that this may be a recall job ( under warranty etc ) or does this exist on all Defenders of that type.
    Your 08 Deefer should not have a clunk when changing gears - definitely not normal.

    Does it happen on initial take off? Could be slack in the drive train or bushes as well as ball joint..
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  4. #4
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    My 2010 does this as well - it is more noticable when the car is warmed up or on a warmer day! When you first take off it isn't too bad but say after a few hours running it is there quite noticably.

  5. #5
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    mine did it really bad when I first got mine..when I had the clutch changed out gear changes were heaps better, but the clunk which sounds like the take up of drive line slack was also improved. but they also did some shimming of the transfer case I believe which if they did I think also helped a lot. still get it occasionally but no where near as much.

    My A frame is solid by the way..
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  6. #6
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    I will ask the question next service . I'd say mine was worse as it warmed up too. Should be a warranty thing then.

  7. #7
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    I'm due for a service in about 1000km, so I will ask as well.

  8. #8
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    mine is just out of warranty and when I change gear it's like i'm getting rear ended by a mini, my rear balljoint is a beautiful thing but and is nearly as good as the day it left the factory

  9. #9
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Clunk on gear changing is usually the result of both free play somewhere in the drive train and drag on the hand brake.

    There is always free play in the drive train after the gearbox - spline joints at about sixteen locations (may have miscounted), end play on planet gears in three differentials, end play on the transfer idler gears, plus any play in the axle locating links (where there shhould not be any!). In normal circumstances, when you disengage the clutch to change gears, the drive bits keep turning at the same speed as each other, since the only significant braking effect is the wheels slowing, so assuming you were providing power before the change, the slack remains taken up in the drive direction.

    But if the handbrake is dragging, even slightly, as soon as you disengage the clutch, the slack is immediately taken up in the overrun direction, so that when you take it up in the drive direction when re-engaging the clutch there is a clunk. This braking effect is not necessary to get a clunk if there is free play in the axle locating links however, and it is always possible to induce a clunk by bad driving anyway.

    So first check - make sure the handbrake is not dragging - go for a drive, stop and feel the handbrake drum - should be no hotter than the prop shaft. (careful, it may be hot!). For a better check, chock the vehicle, jack up one back wheel, release the handbrake and check that the prop shaft turns freely. If it still clunks, look for free play in any of the axle locating links.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Clunk on gear changing is usually the result of both free play somewhere in the drive train and drag on the hand brake.

    There is always free play in the drive train after the gearbox - spline joints at about sixteen locations (may have miscounted), end play on planet gears in three differentials, end play on the transfer idler gears, plus any play in the axle locating links (where there shhould not be any!). In normal circumstances, when you disengage the clutch to change gears, the drive bits keep turning at the same speed as each other, since the only significant braking effect is the wheels slowing, so assuming you were providing power before the change, the slack remains taken up in the drive direction.

    But if the handbrake is dragging, even slightly, as soon as you disengage the clutch, the slack is immediately taken up in the overrun direction, so that when you take it up in the drive direction when re-engaging the clutch there is a clunk. This braking effect is not necessary to get a clunk if there is free play in the axle locating links however, and it is always possible to induce a clunk by bad driving anyway.

    So first check - make sure the handbrake is not dragging - go for a drive, stop and feel the handbrake drum - should be no hotter than the prop shaft. (careful, it may be hot!). For a better check, chock the vehicle, jack up one back wheel, release the handbrake and check that the prop shaft turns freely. If it still clunks, look for free play in any of the axle locating links.
    John

    Actually this would make a lot of sense to something else that happens to the car on occasions....

    Sometimes when I pull away in first and then lets say I decided that actually no I need to stop and I press the clutch in the car will jolt several times and on each jolt make a rattle sound...bit like the clutch isn't disengaging. However perhaps (being as though I have had issues with handbrake drag) it could be due to the handbrake??? especially as I think the handbrake has started to drag once again.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




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