Puma running in 80/3000????

**pc3** · 12th June 2010, 09:02 PM

Have heard conflicting reports that it's better for the motor to just drive normally rather than drive no faster than 80km and not to rev over 3000. Funnily enough the pumas I test drove seem to prefer gear changes when revs where up a bit. The book said do it for 800 km

Arb said it's no good in any diesel.

**Slunnie** · 12th June 2010, 10:16 PM

I think the company that makes them will know better than a guy who sells bullbars.

**Scallops** · 13th June 2010, 08:22 AM

I agree with Slunnie - take it easy with the new engine and run it in as per the instructions - The motor will actually free up over 40k or so. There is never the need to rev this engine to 3000rpm in a normal road situation. Max torque @ 2000rpm.

**solmanic** · 13th June 2010, 10:10 AM

X2. Regardless of whether the instructions in the manual are just Land Rover covering themselves, it's a god idea to go easy until everything has bedded in.

Having said this, I have witnessed what they do at the factory when Defenders come off the production line. They drive them onto a rolling road, strap them down then flog the crap out of them for a couple of minutes to see if anything breaks. It's called an Italian tune-up.

Tombie · 13th June 2010, 10:44 AM

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I think the company that makes them will know better than a guy who sells bullbars.

I don't agree actually.
The factory method doesn't really do the engine any favour.

Load it up, work it... And then change the oil.

City stop start traffic is the worst for breaking in an engine.

**Slunnie** · 13th June 2010, 10:51 AM

Originally Posted by Tombie2

I don't agree actually.
The factory method doesn't really do the engine any favour.

Load it up, work it... And then change the oil.

City stop start traffic is the worst for breaking in an engine.

I totally agree with the loading it up part.

**Northy** · 13th June 2010, 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I totally agree with the loading it up part.

me too, after bike rebuilds we always short shift and get load on the engine, i've heard the load on the engine pushes the rings out into the bore and helps them bed in better. i also know that allot of people who build quick road cars will run in an engine on a dyno, and one of the reasons is so they can get some load on the engine, without driving like a silly bugger on the road

**scarry** · 13th June 2010, 01:55 PM

When i first drove the Puma I found the revs had to be up or it would labour in the next gear.Labouring any engine is bad & is particularly bad for a new one.
I would stick around 2 to 2.6k & you will be fine.

**PAT303** · 13th June 2010, 07:16 PM

My Tdi was driven without any running in from the day I bought it and 12 years later is still running like the day I bought it.If you want glazed up bores drive it easy. Pat

Tombie · 13th June 2010, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by PAT303

My Tdi was driven without any running in from the day I bought it and 12 years later is still running like the day I bought it.If you want glazed up bores drive it easy. Pat

Exactly!

Get into it a bit, use the revs occasionally.

The pro street engines I built were put into vehicles, the cam bedded in, tuning adjustments made.

Then out onto the forecourt of the workshop at a tyre destroying burn-out done to bed in the rings!!!

Followed by an oil change and a run through the hills to bed it some more.

Then onto the rest of it's life.

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