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Thread: something black and liquidy on the floor mat

  1. #1
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    something black and liquidy on the floor mat

    Hi Guys

    Got in the td5 110 this morning to see about 4 spots of black liquid on the grey floor mats. Its almost oil like, but not very slippy and its dirty.

    its just to the left of the clutch pedal but isnt running off the clutch pedal cant really see where its coming from. There were more spots when i got to work.

    Am i looking at a clutch master cylinder? clutch still feels fine....

    Thanks

    Steve

  2. #2
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    Yes, sounds like clutch master cylinder
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzu110 View Post
    Yes, sounds like clutch master cylinder
    x2.

    Keep a bottle of clutch fluid in the car for top ups until it's sorted.

  4. #4
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    so is the fluid black? or is it just having a clean up on its way down....

    Whats the normal repair?

    Complete out of the master cylinder and replacement? Typical cost?

    Thanks

    Steve

    EDIT is there a particular clutch fluid i'll be looking for?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5teve View Post
    so is the fluid black? or is it just having a clean up on its way down....

    Whats the normal repair?

    Complete out of the master cylinder and replacement? Typical cost?

    Thanks

    Steve

    EDIT is there a particular clutch fluid i'll be looking for?
    Fluid is black because it is dirty and old, some people top up the m/c for months before they get around to sorting the problem. Not me of course.

    Sometimes it seems like a bit of grit gets caught in the seal, the master cylinder dumps the fluid and the grit and everything is fine for a while longer.

    Repair is either - seal kit for m/c, replace m/c, or get old m/c sleeved with stainless steel liner and refit.

    Seal kit is under $20, replacement m/c is around $100.

    Fluid is probably dot 4 brake fluid.

  6. #6
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    As above. Fluid is probably black because it has dissolved the black paint on the pedal and pedal box on the way down. The master cylinder is the one most commonly used on hydraulic override barakes on trailers, and should be available from any brake specialist, caravan and trailer parts supplier or Repco/Supercheap etc for around $35. You will probably need to use the old pushrod. There have been a number of discussions here on how to replace the m/c, and search should find them.

    There is a bare possibility that it is grease off the pedal pivot, but a sniff at the drops should clarify if it is brake fluid.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    If servicing/replacing the clutch master cylinder, I'd suggest doing the slave cylinder at the same time. Not much extra cost or effort and then your complete clutch hydraulics will all be up to scratch.
    Roger


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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    As above. Fluid is probably black because it has dissolved the black paint on the pedal and pedal box on the way down. The master cylinder is the one most commonly used on hydraulic override barakes on trailers, and should be available from any brake specialist, caravan and trailer parts supplier or Repco/Supercheap etc for around $35. You will probably need to use the old pushrod. There have been a number of discussions here on how to replace the m/c, and search should find them.

    There is a bare possibility that it is grease off the pedal pivot, but a sniff at the drops should clarify if it is brake fluid.

    John

    Agree with John,for the cost of a new mastercylinder,you wouldn't bother messing around with taking it apart and putting a kit in.I think even a Landrover cylinder on the net is no more than $60.The black is quite often either the rubber seal on the rear of the cylinder perishing,especially if the cylinder has been fitted for a long time,or dirt that has accumulated on the pushrod over the years,and is washed off by the leaking fluid.


    Wayne

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    I've just gone through the same scenario, MY03 TD5 110.
    Clutch Master used was the generic trailer type. $35
    Clutch fluid is Dot4 brake fluid.
    Clutch master was replaced and a week later the clutch slave gave out from the new pressure capacity from the new CM.
    So back in she went for a new clutch slave, this one has to be a genuine LR type(aprox$110).
    You will find this on the upper part of the bell housing next to your Cat(hard to get at 'cause of the exhaust pipe)
    $350 worth of labour charge from the workshop.
    If you do it yourself, don't forget to bleed the clutch system properly and set the correct height of your clutch pedal, as when the CM goes out pedal will drop.
    The new clutch master will last around 50k.
    A stainless re sleave might get a little more lifespan but its not a permanent fix.
    There is no permanent fix, as the geometry of the pushrod to line of travel of the clutch piston is off centre, so inherently the piston on the clutch system will always wear to one side of the bore.

    I rode my leaking clutch master for about 4 months, just carry a bottle of brake fluid with you and top up as the pedal slowly gets softer. Unless finances are strong than get it sorted right away for peace of mind.


    Good luck.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    As above. Fluid is probably black because it has dissolved the black paint on the pedal and pedal box on the way down. The master cylinder is the one most commonly used on hydraulic override barakes on trailers, and should be available from any brake specialist, caravan and trailer parts supplier or Repco/Supercheap etc for around $35. You will probably need to use the old pushrod. There have been a number of discussions here on how to replace the m/c, and search should find them.

    There is a bare possibility that it is grease off the pedal pivot, but a sniff at the drops should clarify if it is brake fluid.

    John
    Thanks John info is very appreciated.. the strange thing is... that althought its a thin oil (rather like baby oil) there is NO smell.. which is wierd as i know very well what brake fluid smells like!



    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    If servicing/replacing the clutch master cylinder, I'd suggest doing the slave cylinder at the same time. Not much extra cost or effort and then your complete clutch hydraulics will all be up to scratch.
    Thanks.. a worthy thought indeed!

    Quote Originally Posted by LowRanger View Post
    Agree with John,for the cost of a new mastercylinder,you wouldn't bother messing around with taking it apart and putting a kit in.I think even a Landrover cylinder on the net is no more than $60.The black is quite often either the rubber seal on the rear of the cylinder perishing,especially if the cylinder has been fitted for a long time,or dirt that has accumulated on the pushrod over the years,and is washed off by the leaking fluid.


    Wayne
    I wouldnt overhaul it to save a small amount.. i'd just rip it out and start again.. im that kinda guy!

    Quote Originally Posted by ciapek View Post
    I've just gone through the same scenario, MY03 TD5 110.
    Clutch Master used was the generic trailer type. $35
    Clutch fluid is Dot4 brake fluid.
    Clutch master was replaced and a week later the clutch slave gave out from the new pressure capacity from the new CM.
    So back in she went for a new clutch slave, this one has to be a genuine LR type(aprox$110).
    You will find this on the upper part of the bell housing next to your Cat(hard to get at 'cause of the exhaust pipe)
    $350 worth of labour charge from the workshop.
    If you do it yourself, don't forget to bleed the clutch system properly and set the correct height of your clutch pedal, as when the CM goes out pedal will drop.
    The new clutch master will last around 50k.
    A stainless re sleave might get a little more lifespan but its not a permanent fix.
    There is no permanent fix, as the geometry of the pushrod to line of travel of the clutch piston is off centre, so inherently the piston on the clutch system will always wear to one side of the bore.

    I rode my leaking clutch master for about 4 months, just carry a bottle of brake fluid with you and top up as the pedal slowly gets softer. Unless finances are strong than get it sorted right away for peace of mind.


    Good luck.
    Mines a 2002 with 118,000k's on it.. so i cant complain.. i have a bottle of fluid now so should be good... and a rag to mop up!

    sounds like its a bugger of a job so may look at getting Richard to do it in case i dont have time! its about due for a service tool.. i'll have a ganders on Rave later..

    Thanks for all the info guys

    Steve

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