lardy - No PM in evidence.. ???
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lardy - No PM in evidence.. ???
typically grrrr! was a picture of an across windscreen shelf in a link think it was in technical ...don't know what happened to the p.m. I am hopeless
and what does that have to do with servicing ???
A mate has all the tools (aside from drain trays and milk bottles which I shall attend to!). Oh, and beer bottles (full, for emptying)
There was a thread somewhere talking about what oils are required etc... must find it....
Edit: here 'tis: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ml#post1304515
I don't think it is possible to do an oil change on a 300Tdi and not come away oily :DQuote:
Originally Posted by weeds
Mine (D1) has a convenient sway-bar right where the oil comes out, and I always end up with some on the shed floor.
Vlad - are you going to set the valve clearances?
er yeah your right.....might just stick with less messQuote:
Originally Posted by spudboy
What coolant do people use ?
Power Steering, brake and cluitch fluid ?
I don't know, am I ? Should I ?Quote:
Originally Posted by spudboy
A mate is helping me with it. so I guess it'll be up to him.
Why do you ask, wise one?
How long since they've been done? I think it is every 10,000miles they should be done.
Easy job, you just need:
- 0.2mm feeler gauge (0r 0.008 inch)
- flat blade screwdriver
- 27mm rachet (to turn the crank)
- 13mm spanner (to loosen/tighten valve adjuster)
- 45 minutes - an hour max
I use the "9" method to work out which valve to adjust. i.e. look for the valve that is fully compressed. Work out the difference from 9 and that is the one to adjust.
i.e. if valve 1 is fully depressed, - adjust 8
if valve 4 is fully depressed, adjust 5,
and so on
HTH
David
Here's a link to the page in the manual that explains it: http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...nual_Page_.jpg
BTW - set them cold