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Thread: WHEEL STUD OVERTREADED

  1. #1
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    WHEEL STUD OVERTREADED

    I went to change my back wheel today and one of the studs was way over tight and when i got it to move it , It looked like it was put on the wrong tread and know is just turning and not coming off the stud.
    is there any way i can get it off the stud without grinding the stud off ?
    any feedback would be appreciated

    Thanks Declan

  2. #2
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    you can try levering the wheel off while turning the nut. you might get enough purchase on whats left of the threads to enable them to start and unwind.

    make sure the vehicle is well chocked and supported and you have all the other wheel nuts removed prior to starting.

    Odds are both the stud and nut are fubar and will need replacing.

    IF its a steel rim you can very carefully drill the nut at the apexes and then fracture it off. If its an ally rim or you cant get into the nut you are going to be better off drilling out the stud then snapping it off.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
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    What sort of vehicle, Declan. Front or rear diff.? It helps if you tell us these details. Maybe the wheel stud is turning in the hub. If this is the case,You will have to take the wheel and hub off the vehicle in one piece and spot weld the stud into the hub. You will have to remove the brake caliper first. Then you can deal with the stud. If it's a stripped thread it's probably a similar procedure to sort it out depending on whether the stud is turning in the hub or not. If not oxy or drill the stud is probably the easiest way.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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    Its alloy wheels so i will give it a try when get it off it will be anti-seize on all studs to stop this happening again.

    Thanks for your advice.

  5. #5
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    Defender 110 2006 rear left wheel is the problem

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    your going to have to drill it or sacrafice the ally.

    I Strongly recommend that you drill the stud then snap it off. you will need some very good drill bits and a very good drill.

    from memory you cant dismantle the hub through the ally rims to remove it from the stub axle.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    your going to have to drill it or sacrafice the ally.

    I Strongly recommend that you drill the stud then snap it off. you will need some very good drill bits and a very good drill.

    from memory you cant dismantle the hub through the ally rims to remove it from the stub axle.
    Another good reason (not previously thought of) for not using the allys when travelling in remote areas - thanks.
    Roger


  8. #8
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    If i drill the stud will i be able to use the tread again or do i need to get a new tread and where would i get one .

  9. #9
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    no, drilling out the stud is going to destroy it. truth be told if its cross threaded or turning in the hub its stuffed anyway.

    you will need to replace both the stud and the nut as you have allys dont expect much change from $30 for the stud and nut alone.

    once you have the wheel off you will have to

    remove the drive flange
    remove the brake caliper
    remove the hub
    dismount the rotor
    knock out whats left of the old stud
    replace the stud
    reassemble.

    in doing this you will also need some other parts (some you might be able to re-use but I dont advice it) and consumables

    hub seal
    flange seal
    stake nut
    grease
    brake clean
    brake fluid
    loctite 243 + 262

    In a decent workshop I wouldnt expect the total repair time to be more than 3 hours.

    Parts can be had from a few places, I reccomend M R Automotive (that'll be a mail delivery to you expect 2 days) four wheel drives over in melbourne (same deal) but I think there is a roverspares in Adelaide that would be your fastest bet, hopefully a local will be able to chime in with details.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Well i finaly got my rear wheel stud off ,i had to grind and drill it but i saved the alloy wheel all i need know is a new stud. I took all the wheels off to check them and all them were very hard to get off so know i have decided to take the studs of at least once every two months to make sure they do not bond to the alloy again.
    Thanks for all your replies they were very helpful.

    Declan

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