I'd have to say it'd be awseome, with a big variable vane turbo and cooler:cool: she'd be heavy over the front though:D
Printable View
Wouldn't be a problem with the PS and the extra weight on the front would match the grip from the rear end. Awesome alright I reckon. If I had a 6X6 thats the way I would go, you can always mount the aircleaner elsewhere. And just imagine the torque you could tweak out of it WITH Isuzu longevity and reliability and no reliance on electronics:D:D
Good to see someone is happy with there Chev, i wasn't, in my opnion it was a gutless engine for its size. Hard to cool, not that economical.
Cost me around $15k to install (all myself) including the cost of a reco engine, and boy was i dissapointed. Only ever seen one other installed that didn't have any drama's, seen many that have.
IMHO the Isuzu 4BD1t leaves it for dead (except for engine brakeing;))
What I see as my problem is this, The 130 6x6 will be around 20-22' long, weigh in at around 2.5-3Tonn Unladen and hopefully be able to carry 3-4Tonn on a FULL size Flat Tray I want to fit. I dont want a Turbo (never liked them) but have been thinking of a Blower though. It will also need to pull a 2.5Tonn~ trailer (loaded) and be able to do this all day long as it makes its own track.
Now I drive Trucks an Bus's for a living, Bus's atm. The thing I find in most of the heavy vech's I drive is that they are guttless as all. Just about every day I keep thinking I need more grunt and more gears (its a bus thing I swear). So the last thing I want is for my 6x6 to be a total wuss of a bush basher.
All the above to me says "Bigger Donk". I have driven the Isuzu Perentie 6x6 many times and while its engine was adaquate, it could have been better (IMHO). So basicaly I want the best Diesel Engine I can get and hopefully mate it to the best Gearbox/TC combo thats going but makes getting a 6x6 possible. That brings me to the question of , is the stock 130 Gearbox/TC a better box than the LT95, can the PTO unit be attached to the back end of the 130 Box ? Idealy the minimul amount of swaping parts would be the best outcome, but not if its going to deter performance and make the 6x6 impossible to do.
The other question I have is, it was mention before, that the PTO unit is/was a standed part for the FC101. Do I have this correct? Or was it an optional extra. If its a standed Part that is not used by FC101 owners, how hard would it be to make a blanking plate to fit the back of the TC and remove the PTO (and sell it to some one like...ohhh I dont know...me perhaps.. :) ).
I know I can just get a Bogie drive conversion made up for permante 4x4 rear wheel drive, but the option of being able to change how many axels are driven at any one time and being able to do this on the fly give far more flexability in how I can drive on an off road. So the exploration of ideas, combo's and whats available part wise, must all be given due thought.
Gibs - sounds like you want a UniMog. Nice big 6.7L Diesel and a huge tray.
There were some mid 80's units for sale in Canberra a few weeks ago (ex-NZ army units). The guy selling them was after $60K-odd. Might be cheaper than doing an engine swap and dual axle build ...... :p
Funny that you should mention the Mog. It was due to loading a Mog that I got a medical discharge (3 prolapse disks lower spine). Of all things it was a bloody mally root (boss wanted a bonfire at the end of the Ex...:( ). I have indeed considered the Mog, but I need the extra cabin space of a crew cab. There is only one UniMog Dealer in WA an he's in Bunbry (IIRC). The U5000 Series last time I looked has no Crew Cab version. I have also looked into the OKA. The new NT model has been improved a lot but after sales support is very limited Nation wide due to only one dealership (here in WA at Spearwood, its also where its made). They do have the option of Crew Cab an even the Multi Cab, but I am still worried that the engine is to small.
What also go's against both the Mog an the Oka is tray height. Due to my back injury and more to the point of how I got it, high trays are out of the question. Even the 130 tray will in some ways be a challenge for me. But its a far better option at this point in time.
Gibs I have,
Now have to deal with some other posts here. This I will do with relish.
Not anyone has posted with a successful 6.5 upgrade. Why I do not know? It remains that others have posted on their failures and because they have or that "someone they know" has failed they bag the motor. Where is someonoe that has succeded in doing this modification to advise on the outcome. Similarly then persons go to another motor that you have not asked for. Why? Sheep run this way..........
Gibs,
The upgrade you mentioned is attainable. If you plan and do so then this is a good outcome. Towing as you mentioned is a breeze with this motor. Plan well and achieve the desired outcome.
I have mentioned previously that my motor runs cool. This is true and given where I am located and that I usually go further North (don't know why) as a general rule than I would suggest that this is a reasonable platform to work with. My fuel usage is real for you to use as a guide. The motor is fitted to a 98 Defender with the standard gearbox and Ascroft, fine, transfer case gears to reduce the revs.
As this thread is about a 6.5 heart transplant, I hope you accept this as a guide from someone that Has succeded in fitting a simple motor to a vehicle. Really it is not that hard.
Regards,
PeterW
Thanks Peter, its always good to get a balance on these type of things. I too believe in the 5P's - Prior Planing Prevents PĂsspoor Performance. This is why I signed up here, to pick peoples noggins an get the good oil. Speaking of picking noggins, I hope when its time I can pick your's. :)
One quick suggestion, you where saying you are suffering from a back injury and the reason you want a D/C 130/ perentite is the height compared to a unimog or OKA. Have you considered installing a hydralic lift arm on the back(above No. plate or between cab and tray) of whatever vehicle you end up buying/building? This could be used with slings to load both your 6x6 or unimog and your trailer helping prevent further pain/injury.
P.S If you do go ahead with the 6.5 do a blog so we can see as i personally would like to see how well a 6.5 fits and how difficult it is.