Just "Defender" or bad quality?

For the fuel leaking issue - I had that one. The Puma fuel tank is the same as the TD5 but without the lift pump built in, there is a large sealing ring that apparently is quite difficult to fit correctly. Or alternatively it could be a damaged breather hose.

Either way - DON'T drive it on the road. It's potentially lethal to motorbike riders, if they hit the spilt diesel you could be responsible for someone crashing.

Call Land Rover assist and get them to two it back to the dealer to be fixed. I did, and they agreed once I mentioned they could be up for negligent manslaughter if they did not.

My PUMA also clunks worse that the TD5 I also own, at 180,000 the old TD5 is much nicer to drive than the PUMA. I've put this down to a very touchy accelerator response, that makes the vehicle lurch or stutter during acceleration. I reckon it's due to a faulty EGR valve - but as no fault is registered they won't touch it.

The fuel problem stopped after 2 kms ( I stopped several times on the side of the road to check) and it is booked in on Monday. My guess is a breath pipe problem as it stopped quite quickly.

I have changed driving technique and if I allow revs to drop with slow, slow gear changes and release clutch pedal slowly the clung doesn't happen. The only problem is that forward moment is so restricted I almost end up back where I started .. in fact I am starting to wonder why they put in a 6 speed gear box as I lose so much speed going into 4th that I have to go back to 2nd and then work back upto 4th!!!!!....not quite but you get the idea!

I'll keep working on my technique but didn't realise driving like a geriatric in a coma was part of the deal....I can say that becasue I am an old fart!:D:D

Just to clarify the mods issue, the only change thus far are Mungo seat rails extension on the drivers side and 1" larger tyres.....hardly radical. Suspension and everything else is still as it was straight from the factory....for now.

Having said that, at thsi stage I am planning to keep things pretty stock mechanically if possible. If it doesn't break I'll leave it. My main plan for mods is for bar work, touring and camping aids/setup and significant navigation assitance.

Doesn't sound right to me. I get an occasional clunck, but I am an old fart. Maybe you need to get one of the 'old' forum hands to have a drive to see what they think.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

I reckon the fuel leak is likely to be the fuel return line connecting in the middle on top of tank so its the highest point on the tank that can leak. So when you fill the tank to the brim, it's the first place to leak. It's also the only one that's hard to see (if it's pretty much the same as the 300tdi tank)
cheers gerald

I have found mine to be clunky. The dealer suggested it's due to the heavy (as in strong) syncros in the gearbox. However in my short ownership I have been able to adjust the driving style so that the clunks are minimal or pretty quiet.
Certainly pushing the clutch in quickly stirs the drive line up, I think it's all about being smooth. I have been changing in the 2600 to 2900 rev range.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nugge t

... .... ... ... ..

I have changed driving technique and if I allow revs to drop with slow, slow gear changes and release clutch pedal slowly the clung doesn't happen. The only problem is that forward moment is so restricted I almost end up back where I started .
... .... ... ...

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I tried that technique on mine, but found that I had more success with a different approach.

I still use a slowish gear change and clutch engagement, but I found that it made a bigger difference when changing up if I either gave the throttle a little blip or didn't fully release the accelerator pedal during the gear change.

It seemed that the revs dying right down during the change was adding to the problem. If I kept the revs up very slightly, the clunk was easier to avoid.

I find the problem of getting the revs right as the next gear is engaged is due partly to the fact that my petrol car engine revs up quite a bit with a tiny bit of throttle while the diesel accelerator works more like a governor, so a little bit of throttle only gives a little rise in revs. So the feel is quite different between the two vehicles.

My theory is that a slow change with the revs dropping right back allows all the slack in the transmission and suspension to accumulate in one direction and then when the clutch is re-engaged, everything goes back the other way. Keeping the revs up very slightly either with a tiny bit of accelerator or a blip seems to keep all the slack in the right direction.

I find it much easier to get a clunk free change if I use that technique. Others who are better at getting the revs right might not need to resort to that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Naks

Standard Defender issue - but I concur, it is far worse on my brand new Puma (13Kkm) than on my previous Td5 (66Kkm).


Also be aware that the propshafts on the Puma do not have grease nipples, so make sure you grease them regularly.

In the meantime, make sure your handbrake adjuster nuts are tightened correctly, and also that the propshaft is not loose on the handbrake drum - you will need a 14 spanner for that one.

If you need the workshop manual, let me know. ;)

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I don't want to Hijack this thread, but ......


The unis on both prop shafts on our Puma are all greasable. This may well have changed.



http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4672/dscn0453m.jpg

Admittably the grease nipples are not in the conventional spot, but right in the center of the cross piece of the uni.

Erich

This may shed some light ,,,,,,,,,,,,no issues with my 2010 puma drive train ...........allthough it has "plenty' tolerance,,,,,,,,cheers

Originally Posted by 4runnernomore https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/768.jpg
Hi all,

Seriously been considering a PUMA 110 as my next replacement vehicle however I am very concerned about longevity of the drive train components.

Lots of threads of people having diffs, transfers etc replaced under warranty and not operating correctly (i.e. noisy) right from the moment they pick them up.

The transfer case issue seems to be solved by the fact the front prop shaft needs a double cardon joint on it even from factory as it binds especially after lifting it.

What is the issue with the noisy diffs?

Is it bearings, incorrect backlash, ring and pinions not meshing? It never seems to elaborate what the noisy diff is apart that it was replaced under warranty.

There are a few saying that the PUMA is the best vehicle ever and others having gone through the warranty windmill to come out the other side with now it is as it should have been from the factory. Are these people concerned that it will start all over again or are they still happy now their PUMA I what it should have been out of the factory.

Can anyone shed some light?

Cheers, Chris
CHRIS.......
this is a commercial box IMO.....i .drove roadtrains/ trailers may years ago for tnt so i know a g-box ,,,it cannot be rushed nor can the clutch ,i suspect some of the tranny /d/train probs are due to operator error,,,,it takes a focused foot to get a silky smooth engadgement -dis engadgement of the clutch,,,,,failure to do this will shockload the drivetrain ......due to low 1st gear its a busy box with plenty of shuffling ,therfore plenty of ops for abuse ......the g-box i find is not unlike a 18 speed roadranger and on some occasions i find my self double shuffling,old habits die hard

i,ve only done 4000k in my new puma wagon ,,,,,,but have many many hrs up in rugged and very rugged terrain ,,,,,,,, spent in the low box,,,,, at the extreme end of suspension / drivetrain / articulation and have had no issues with the vehicle whatsoeva,,,,,,,,,but it has also become plainly apparent to me that the truck like nature of drivetrain /gbox will only accept very positve input from the driver and any lazyness with selection or clutch use will be rewarded with crunching and shockloads ....be aware some of the shockloads are very suttle and imo opinion will not be noticed by many or even thought of as normal,,,,,where a trained ear will pick it up,,,,to get a silky smooth clutch operation requires definite focus ,but the rewards are long drivetrain-clutch life.......

the puma is an awsome machine and its a testimony to it that those that have had major issues with theres have soldiered on and sorted them.

i believe there is nothing else out there in the market that offers such a capable machine,,,for the asking price.

Mate we had a GU pootrol for a few years 2.8D man.. to tell you the truth if we didn't know we were talking about a defender.. id swear you were talking about the GU ....same issues when i first drove it and took it back several times and same response "whats the problem?"... after a while i got used to the fact that it was a truck and coming from a Honda Integra to the GU was an experience in its self ....and to top it we lived in the thick of it on chevron Island on the gold coast and it was our only means of transport!!..lol.. needless to say it lasted three years before the wife finally gave up and said it had to go .!!!, mine you i didn't really mind , because it was a complete pos and was happy to move on to the disco!!....guess its not quite the same but the point I'm trying to make is that in the end its a truck and will take some getting used to , as i said in all the above if i didn't know better would be describing the GU ....and trust me my little bro's Gq would be in the same catagory but i know what id rather be driving ...:D

Some of it is down to the driver. I am used to it and can go clunk-free for ages, whereas Mrs Spud can mash the gears and get clunks out of it I never knew existed.

Re being delicate with changes and having it slow down too much between 4th and 5th etc, you will get on better if you drive it like you stole it. Be positive and direct.

Another thing might be to drive someone else's Puma and see if it feels the same to you, or do as Scallops suggests and get an independent LR place to look it over.