Thread: Just "Defender" or bad quality?

Originally Posted by nugge t

Since purchasing my Defender, I have had what to me are pretty serious driveline clunking noises when changing gears. Have tried all sorts of soft and hard clutch operation but nothing seems to work. Most commonly the clunk comes from the rear but 10% of the time it is the front.

Dropped it back to the dealer, waited the compulsory 2 hours, watched the truck going in and out of the service shed 5 times and then was told..."all normal. That is how defenders come."

I half expected this but am worried that if I am getting this at 2,000kms, what is going to happen at 40,000kms when I am in a remote area.

They did fix the day light I could see from the drivers position, on the passenger door seal though. How the small section of foam with double sided tape holds up is yet to be tested but think I will wear thongs on my first water crossing.

I had also noticed weaping on the fuel tank. When I filled up this morning, there was fuel dripping onto the servo driveway as I walked back to my vehicle. I drove a km, stopped and there was a wet spot again so drove another km and another wet spot. I would generally take any wet spot not on sheets as a bad sign.

Emailed the dealer and to their credit have gotten promtly back asking to get the vehicle back in. Having had a previous bad Land Rover experience 10 years ago, this is starting to sound a little too familiar but hope I am wrong.

I also asked them to advise that if the the clunking is "accpetable Defender tolerance", what exactly is the tolerance. Their reply is that it has been noted and they will monitor. Can anyone tell me where the line is drawn between "acceptable" and poor quality?

Defender transmission does involve a learning circle to perhaps master smooth changes, but I'd be concerned the noise might be something else.

I suggest you take it into MR automotive in Redcliffe (LR specialist) and have them check your vehicle. They will provide a written report that your dealer will act on. I've had many "that is normal, sir" change to - "we'll order the new part and have it fitted sir", after this exercise.

As for thongs driving river crossings - mate - they all leak - they are designed to so they don't float. If it's deep water - your feet will get wet.

Fuel tank - get this fixed ASAP!

Good luck.

I think there is a drive train learning curve ... I was so used to driving our city car that when I first drove my new County - after a few years of not driving a Landy - I got a clunk because I was used to letting the clutch go so early. I noticed that with some mechanical sympathy, if I let the clutch out more slowly there was no more clunking. The truck went through a pre purchase inspection in Qld where it was driven hard for about 20 mins and went through Blue Slip in NSW early this week and nobody ( Mechanics ) made any comments about the drive line.

Bottom line is that I think this is the way they are ... as was my Series IIa.

Simon.

With the clunking, its much the same at 2,000km as 200,000km. Having the transfer case, centre diff, 4 unis, 2 slip joints, 2 more diffs and 8 axle splines, plus the suspension bushes and CVs, all with British tolerances, adds up to a reasonable amount of play. I understand though stand to be corrected that there is actually extra play built into the front transfer case output so the power is directed to the rear diff before the front diff gets power.
Locking the CDL and removing one propshaft will often reduce the clunk.

Originally Posted by nugge t

Their reply is that it has been noted and they will monitor.

I too have had this "monitor" thing thrown at me by various dealers. I have learnt though that it is realy a euphamism for "we're not going to do anything" and then when the warranty runs out it becomes 'the vehicle is now out of warranty' and this will cost $$$$$$$'s to fix.

Good luck!!

I think you need to be very careful nugge_t. While I have not been following the forum well enough to know the details of your vehicle mods, you have certainly made changes that Land Rover Australia (LRA) would not approve of (eg changed the tyre size). Now, while these mods may not be the cause of your transmission problem (assuming you have a transmission problem) and the mods may seem to you (and others on this forum) to be not unreasonable, that may not be the view of LRA nor your dealer (they will say what the boss tells them to say most of the time).

Several people on the forum have had warranty issue after they have modified new vehicle with LRA denying responsibility. I think Gav has given up, Povman largely returned his vehicle to 'original', and someone who's name I can't recall has just had to provide an engineers report to win his battle. If there really is a transmission problem with your vehicle and LRA wipes their hands of you, those bigger tyres (or what ever) have become very expensive indeed.

I know I am probably over cautious, but I wouldn't want to go into battle against LRA.

Cheers
KarlB

I understand where you are coming from and it is why I advised of the problem in writing before the new tyres were fitted.

Whilst it would not surprise me if they tried, I reckon they would be hard pressed to blame leaking fuel on larger tyres!

When I picked up my new Puma a few months ago I was absolutely delighted at how smooth the drive train was. There were no clunking noises whatsoever so personally I would not regard it as a "Defender Thing", at least not on a relatively new vehicle like yours. At 8,000 Km the drive line is still smooth. I hope that this gives you an additional data point.

Both of my previous 110s had plenty of backlash and would clunk significantly if you weren't careful with the clutch, but having said that they each had around 300,000Km on the clock. A bit of care would still see the drive line operate failrly smoothly. When I had a LR specialist mechanic inspect the cars they took the view that each element in the drive trail had backlash that was within spec but it just seemed a lot when all those tolerances were added up along the entire drive. I am expecting that the same thing will gradually happen to the puma as it would with any manual vehicle.

Originally Posted by nugge t

Since purchasing my Defender, I have had what to me are pretty serious driveline clunking noises when changing gears. Have tried all sorts of soft and hard clutch operation but nothing seems to work. Most commonly the clunk comes from the rear but 10% of the time it is the front.

Standard Defender issue - but I concur, it is far worse on my brand new Puma (13Kkm) than on my previous Td5 (66Kkm).

My indie mechanic informs me that the rear drive member is already worn and won't last much longer *sigh*

So when it goes in for the first service in Feb, I will tell them to change it.

Also be aware that the propshafts on the Puma do not have grease nipples, so make sure you grease them regularly.

In the meantime, make sure your handbrake adjuster nuts are tightened correctly, and also that the propshaft is not loose on the handbrake drum - you will need a 14 spanner for that one.

If you need the workshop manual, let me know.