Whats wrong with Puma rear diffs

So guys you are saying when, not if, my puma diff fails I don't bother with warranty because it will only fail again. And if were to fit a locker I will most probably void warranty anyway.
So I'll in time probably fit a Detroit as ARB are to expansive. And then do I put it into a new salisbury diff with up graded Maxi axles.

Is that what's required for a long term reliable diff. Can I get a second hand Salisbury? If so are they only in Counties?

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Originally Posted by newhue

So guys you are saying when, not if, my puma diff fails I don't bother with warranty because it will only fail again. And if were to fit a locker I will most probably void warranty anyway.
So I'll in time probably fit a Detroit as ARB are to expansive. And then do I put it into a new salisbury diff with up graded Maxi axles.

Is that what's required for a long term reliable diff. Can I get a second hand Salisbury? If so are they only in Counties?

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Certainly while it is in waranty get it repaired, won't cost you, but afterward then a Sals ex 1999 to 2002 Td5 equipped 110 with ABS is required, with tailshaft. Standard axles are sufficient if not running a locker, and as long as it is modded for oil lube to the axle splines, they should last well.

JC

As wagoo said the salisbury fitted to the defender till 2002 is just a METRIC version of the dana 60 fitted TODAY (FFS LR) to the jeep wrangler!
The only bloody reason that most can see they went to the cheaper/weaker rr/disco rear diff was to reduce parts on shelves.
I have gone down the detroit path as I have an 02 defender with a rear sal(Lucky me:D) and hytuff driveshafts. I believe Mr Automotive are now producing the complete rear locker for the sal's which might be worth looking into.
The other upgrades you will need with a puma are a double card. front propshaft if you lift it and with all defenders if you drive it medium/hard/ or 33in tyres+ you need stronger front cv's!
I really wish we could do a drivetrain "PLEASE EXPLAIN" to landrover.
Explain how they went from the strong cv's(some are still going 25 years later) in the county + salisbury rears to todays puma that stuffs the gearbox if lifted 2in and snaps the back axles or CV's if driven in any type of agression.
Why cant they go back to the original design which was to be a better more calpable version of the jeep wrangler and offer stronger diffs/ drivetrain as a factory mod (rubicon anyone).

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

See JC's post above yours - it won't help.

Ask stig000 (or whatever his name is) about all the problems he had after fitting an ARB to his late td5.

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It did when the Sals and Maxi's were fitted :D - and, as JC points out, that's the real fix.

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

I'd rather have an axle that's reliable and therefore doesn't need a warranty than one that is unreliable and spends a good deal of its life being repaired?

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I would rather let warranty run out before changing anything on the car...

Lou,

I can fully appreciate your point of view.
Personally though, after seeing out warranties on three new Landies over the years, I have never experienced the difficulties that seem to exist at present with regard to warranty claims.

Reliability will win out over warranty for me anytime - especially when venturing to the more remote parts of this vast country. I realise that even with the best prepared and 'reliable' vehicle, breakdowns may occur but I would not be comfortable tackling somewhere like the Madigan Line or even the Victorian High country with a vehicle that had serious shortcomings or repeated failings.