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Thread: Puma clutch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Puma clutch

    2007 Puma just back from the 40,000 service. Rear diff pinion seal and rear main seal weeping oil. Leaking at last, I accept that, however, dealer advised 'Poor clutch operation, clutch kit and slave cylinder required'.
    Now the vehicle has always been great to drive, tows a 1.5 tonne camper with no issues, no clutch problems that I have ever noticed. 'Sorry, you are one month out of warranty and we wont cover this'. What the???? What are the symptoms of the clutch problems in the Puma as I dont seem to have any, and they want me to replace the clutch and pay for it myself. Going for a second opinion, bit hard though when there doesn't even seem to be a problem. I would have thought the rattle would be evident or poor gate selection or something if they reckon the clutch is crook?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    sounds like someone is looking for a Christmas bonus and you are it!!!
    I mean if you tow you would possibly cop for more wear throughout but I would suspect you would start noticing the clutch slipping a bit I did before my clutch went bang....300tdi though!

  3. #3
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    Thats what Im thinking. Funny thing is that the dealer has done the last three services on the truck and during that time there has never been any change to the driveability or the clutch operation - I drive it every day. So why wasnt the 'problem' picked up at the 20,000 or 30,000 service? Out of warranty and suddenly the clutch has to be replaced.

  4. #4
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    I have heard of an instance where a vehicle (not a rover type) had a similar thing done to it where it was routinely serviced for its warranty period and then a heap of things that were not done properly that should have been done properly started to go wrong and had to be repaired at the owners expense.


    I'd get clarification on why the clutch needs to be replaced, they may just mean that it needs a new slave cylinder which is fair enough those things can go anytime.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #5
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    Hey NQ'Ex,

    The first thing I would do is contact LR Aus direct and appeal for a warranty claim for this issue. It sounds like all the services have been done by a LR dealer so they will probably come to the party. Disregard what the dealer is telling you.

    I had several claims outside my warranty period on my D3 with a minimum of fuss. If the first contact at customer service is reluctant then escalate it to a team leader or a Manager, but with an excellent service record you should be right.

    If your appeal to LR is unsuccessful, then just drive it until it breaks if it does at all. Faulty clutches will present symptoms way before they just fail.

    Good Luck.

  6. #6
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    Not being funny but if your out of warranty they cant make you do and pay for anything..

    Just say;

    "well feels good to me I think I will leave it till it slips and when it does i will take it to an independent as it will be cheaper"
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Gold Coast
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    My puma was in the dealers getting a new rear diff, I asked them to look at the gearbox as it was still crunching, and the rattle is horrendous sometimes, anyway they called me up and said we are going to replace the gearbox as there is a problem with the syncromesh, I nearly chocked as it is the 3rd time I asked them to look at it and expected them to say nothing wrong as usual, anyway I get another call later saying we have the gearbox out and your clutch is worn at about 50% do I want to pay for a new one now and there will be no labour charge, this all seems fair but if I still have 50% (50000 Kilometers) left why would I pay now they wanted $660, now maybe it was the wrong decision but when I asked him about the rattle from the clutch he said we could not find any, seriously it is so obvious, I reckon it needs a new clucth and they just wanted me to pay for it. Maybe they have a surplus of clutches this month!!?


    That said the new gearbox and dif are great, cant believe how much of a struggle it was changing gears before, and now my wife can say see told you so it was not me!! Rattle is still there so I am hoping the next time it goes in they will find a problem with the clucth and replace it like they should have done under warranty. Or I will try and find somewhere to take it for a second opionion.


    Anyway new gearbox and diff = no crunch or drivetrain clunking, it feels nice and tight and is the car I bought a year ago again.

    Get a second opionion I would say..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Cairns, Queensland
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    Damn the Torpedoes

    The last Land Rover I drove before I purchased the Puma were Army series IIIs back in the late 70s/early 80s. I was actually in the RAAF and we mostly had 40 series Landcruisers. In fact, I cant remember the Series IIIs being that difficult to drive, and as you can image they were treated pretty harshly. Anyway, the Puma has been nothing but a pleasure to drive since I got it with 20,000 on the clock. You cant rush the gear changes, but if you treat her with respect and drive her like a piece of agricultural machinery, she is as smooth as any other 4wd or light truck I have driven. Yes, at 40,000km there is more driveline slack that my old 60 series at 250,000km. I assume all defenders are like that, but as I say my yardstick is a 1970s Army Series III. Clutch or gear operation has not changed in 20,000 of driving, including outback corrugations and towing 1.5 tonnes. I therefore find it annoying when the dealer informs me that the clutch is faulty and needs replacing, also they want to replace the leaking pinion seal. I have inspected that closely and there is no hint of a leak or any smell of fluid from the front of the diff. I have also discovered dints in the wings that werent there before the service. Now I'll be DIY-ing as much as possible and enjoying it, too. The sheer pleasure of driving the thing is its own reward.

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