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I haven't had this problem, but Im not sure if its because mine is a 2012 model and they sorted it from factory or if it's because I partitioned off the rear load space and the aircon doesnt have to work so hard. What model is yours?? My aircon is running like a dream and its a 110 Wagon. Would it help if you turned the thermostat down so its not freezing up.Quote:
Originally Posted by frenzy
This was the part that LR fixed on mine and problem is now solvedQuote:
Originally Posted by Sue
Frenzy, as I said in August last year I had the parts replaced. Since then it is working as it should, nice and cold for hours on end. That's exactly what it's doing it is icing over, there was a fair bit of discussion on here about the cause of it. Mate, get it done while its under warranty (hopefully) I don't think I'd like the bill if not as its a complete dash out job to do it.
Edit. I just re-read your post and saw your not under warranty, sorry, I guess all you can do is get a quote and go from there..
I had my fault rectified last year (out of warranty sadly). After Sue had hers successfully remedied at Bruce Lynton I boycotted Austral up here in Brisbane and took it to the Gold Coast where I swapped it for an Evoque for the day.
As everyone's said according to the invoice the replacement part was LR036309 Sensor Temp Evaporat at $82.06 and (hope you're sitting down) the labour was $677.94. That figure was on par with a few quotes from other dealerships.
It's not a job for the independents or the air-con guys unfortunately. I had mine at Brisbane's best independent, who in turn took it to their chosen auto-electrician and neither could fix it. You're stuck with the dealerships on this one, and they know the problem. They suggested that I was one of the few people that made it to the end of the warranty period before encountering the failure.
It's certainly fixed the issue and it's survived a 3 month trip in the tropics without fail. I am however a little concerned that my compressor seems to be switching on/off more quickly now. It almost seems to be 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off. Has anyone else noticed shortened intervals on theirs’ post-fix?
If it goes again, I'm going to take the dash off and fix it myself.
We had this problem and replaced the heater valve on the passenger side of engine bay up near bulkhead. Hot water circulates through the heater. The valve is supposed to close off the hot water so the air stays cool. An arm on the valve is attached to a cable from the dash dial. The arm can get stiff and not move all the way. Oiling the arm can help. May have to detach the cable and pull it further through. A replacement heater valve cost $US28 from China. Needs careful adjustment.
The valve is an OE Peugeot Citroen Fiat part made in China and sold by Britpart and others. Search Defender Puma heater valve on eBay.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...84dfa9d98c.jpg
The workshop showed me the old heater valve had a build-up of crud inside which could have been preventing the valve from fully closing and letting heat in after 15 minutes as the circulating coolant got hot while driving.
Has anyone found a repairer in Cairns to resolve this? I tried to call one of the independent Landy guys this arvo but couldn’t get onto him...will try again on Monday...
(The dealer did have a crack at fixing it, did something the first attempt and couldn’t fault it the second. [bigsad])
I’ve currently got most of the dash out for some wiring stuff so thinking now could be the time to get it sorted.
Thanks in advance!!
J
The problem isn't behind the dash, it's in the engine bay, so no need to have the dash out.
Of course that depends on the cause of your problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick