Thread: DIY oil change on a PUMA - Don't use just any old oil

Hi Voltron,
you're right, no Defender with Oz specs has DPF (good news!) however it is DPF ready (bad news!). Based on my research for reasons and specifications I found that this oil (C1 spec) is actually the best because:
1 - stability of the formula,
2 - doesn't break oil film under harsh conditions,
3 - blow-by-gas is much cleaner - note the cyclone style oil separator on the rocker cover as well,
4 - the oil has an actual water cooler/ heat exchanger just above oil filter(!)
5 - it is much less messy when it comes to cat converter,
6 -proven life time (oil changes in EU after 20K kms, in Australia 15K kms - LR/Ford recommendations (although Solitair wants 12K kms) - all that for Castrol C1; I think Fuchs might be better but I will use 10K to 12K kms - subject to checking and driving conditions),
7 - no depositing on sensitive surfaces (e.g. turbo bearings = long life span).
I gues that will do....
Frank

I forgotten one more thing - EGR:

C1 oils claim to have (and it seems to be "confirmed" from around the world) much lesser impact on EGR valve, that is it stays much cleaner, than the other oils can do.
Also on Puma 2.2 & 2.4 L engines the EGR return line is water cooled as well, it helps a bit, too.
Well, I think that concludes the oil story. The hard proof will be in use in the near and more distant future.
Frank

I found this information from Castrol
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...0_B1802_05.pdf
Castrol Magnatec 5W-40
Recommended for the following passenger car models, Jaguar XJR, XJ8, XK8, XKR 3.2, 4.0, 4.0 Litre Supercharged
Land Rover Defender, Discovery, Freelander – Petrol and Diesel
including Td5
I personally would prefer a 40 grade oil for Australia.
Castrol Magnatec - Product
My owners manual only states :
Castrol 5W-30....no reference to ford specifications....are the ford specifications only related to the EU???
As long as I use Castrol Diesel Magnatec there should be no issues as the owners manual does not specify the exact specification oil.

Hmm I don't know.
The owner handbook in a D2 TD5 recommends 5-30 right up to the max temp of 45C or whatever, whereas the V8 recommendation is 40 or 50 at high temps.
Last year Honda started recommending 5-20 in the USA including texas.

I am considering Nulon 5-30 Diesel full synthetic for my D2 TD5 .

The question is whether oils have progressed to the point that the thinner oils do the same job as thicker did in years gone by.
I know I went back from 50 to 40 in my RRC with 200KK on it simply because I couldn't get 50 in Derby and the oil consumption was unchanged even at 40c temps on the way back to Sydney via Longreach which was HOT.
Regards Philip A

I would stick with the manufacturers specs,i am sure they know more about the oils and engines than any of us.......except maybe Rick130

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Hmm I don't know.
The owner handbook in a D2 TD5 recommends 5-30 right up to the max temp of 45C or whatever, whereas the V8 recommendation is 40 or 50 at high temps.
Last year Honda started recommending 5-20 in the USA including texas.

I am considering Nulon 5-30 Diesel full synthetic for my D2 TD5 .

The question is whether oils have progressed to the point that the thinner oils do the same job as thicker did in years gone by.
I know I went back from 50 to 40 in my RRC with 200KK on it simply because I couldn't get 50 in Derby and the oil consumption was unchanged even at 40c temps on the way back to Sydney via Longreach which was HOT.
Regards Philip A

5W-20 has been the standard grade from all the major manufacturers in the US for the last several years.

It works, and also helps them meet the fleet fuel economy mandate (CAFE, corporate average fuel economy)

IMO an xW-40 is nicer in a TD5 thanks to the unit injectors, and a dedicated HDEO (diesel oil) is better again.
Oils like Mobil 1 10W-30 don't have a high enough HTHS IMO to prevent lobe wear with the unit injectors.

[edit] I forgot to add that my own experience with super light weight engine oils twenty years ago in race engines (equivalent to 0W-20 or lighter, there was no equivalent SAE range then) pointed out that running clearances and finishes had to be tailored to suit too, otherwise increased bore wear and bearing cavitation erosion would result.

Originally Posted by scarry

I would stick with the manufacturers specs,i am sure they know more about the oils and engines than any of us.......except maybe Rick130

I know bugger all Paul, or enough to be dangerous, and these manufacturer specs are changing so quickly it's almost impossible to keep up

Originally Posted by ozrob

I found this information from Castrol
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...0_B1802_05.pdf
Castrol Magnatec 5W-40
Recommended for the following passenger car models, Jaguar XJR, XJ8, XK8, XKR 3.2, 4.0, 4.0 Litre Supercharged
Land Rover Defender, Discovery, Freelander – Petrol and Diesel
including Td5
I personally would prefer a 40 grade oil for Australia.
Castrol Magnatec - Product
My owners manual only states :
Castrol 5W-30....no reference to ford specifications....are the ford specifications only related to the EU???
As long as I use Castrol Diesel Magnatec there should be no issues as the owners manual does not specify the exact specification oil.

Hello guys,

Perhaps this helps a bit:

Guide to Engine Oil Claims and Specs Top Tech
- here see the right hand columns - bottom half - Ford Specifications


http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/10...71_2011_09.pdf
- here see page 4 of 5

BTW, this is for Puma 2.2 L only, I do not know the exact requirements for Puma 2.4 L - there might be a difference and I strongly recommend to check the specs with LR.

Regarding the UE specs - no, I am afraid this is a global spec, mate, sorry.
These engines are used all over the world in many vehicles, not just Defenders. They have all their own tweaks but the basics are the same. That includes the oils spec. I agree with PhilipA below that LR says on their Topix page (if you are registered user, you have access there) just SAE 5W-30; however the service instruction and LR requirement says also C1, otherwise the warranty will void
My Defender is still under warranty. I changed my first oil (Fuchs C1) and it runs really well, so I'll keep it that way.
Frank