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Thread: Second Hand, what to watch for?

  1. #1
    nic Guest

    Second Hand, what to watch for?

    Hi guys,

    I have been looking at a second hand 90 for a few months, and would really value the advice of the forum here.

    What are the top things to double check when inspecting a second hand Defender?

    I have the seen the service books and it all looks good, but it would be great to hear what you guys think I should keep an eye out for, or ask when I next inspect the def.

    Thanks boys, Nick

  2. #2
    JamesH Guest
    What model (ie engine, year)?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesH View Post
    What model (ie engine, year)?
    The only 90's officially sold in Au were TD5s (and pumas very recently).

    Assuming a TD5:

    Read up on:
    Oil pump bolt
    Oil in the loom
    Head dowels/head gasket
    EGR issues
    Also check intercooler and piping.

    Apart from that, the usual LandRover stuff:
    Rust - particularly where there is an aluminium skin on a steel frame
    Clunks in suspension, diffs, gearbox.
    oil, coolant, PAS leaks,,,

  4. #4
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    It probably has rover diffs and they aren't known to be that strong. I had the front diff on my 300 Tdi defender (also rover diff) replaced as there was too much wear. I think it was of the diff centre as I was told that some holes had gone oval. I suspect that this might be the planatery gear pin/holes that had the wear in them. ARB centre fixed that.

    I'd say that things like plastic dowles you can't do anything about other than look for later models that don't use them. Oil in the loom, is a pain but it happens and the fix is simple enough.

    Rust
    Slop in the drive train (chocolate half shafts)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    I'd say that things like plastic dowles you can't do anything about other than look for later models that don't use them. Oil in the loom, is a pain but it happens and the fix is simple enough.
    However if you can detect early signs or either (weeping head gasket, fluids or pressure where they shouldn't be, rough running) it could mean a discount or the seller fixes before sale.

    90 diffs have a much easier life than 110 or 130 diffs. Diff issues should be unlikely (but still worth checking)

  6. #6
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    Nic,

    Approximate age would be a starting point as JamesH pointed out. If you can physically get hold of a 90 (they are reasonable scares in Aus) there are a some things to look out for unique to each particular model.

    I've never owned any Defender other than 90's, so I know their moods fairly well. As Isuzurover pointed out, the drivetrain appears to have an easier life in 90 as I've never snapped a halfshaft or had any diff issues of any nature. While I've had the odd bearing or UJ failure (normal wear in harsh construction environments), they've always gotten me home.

    If you've got your eye on one specifically, let us know and there would be loads of advice and pointers.

  7. #7
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    However if you can detect early signs or either (weeping head gasket, fluids or pressure where they shouldn't be, rough running) it could mean a discount or the seller fixes before sale.

    90 diffs have a much easier life than 110 or 130 diffs. Diff issues should be unlikely (but still worth checking)
    agreed

  8. #8
    nic Guest
    Thanks guys, really appreciate the insights, its a 05 Def. 90.

    Its seen little off road use, but I value your thoughts about what to triple check.

    Cheers, Nic

  9. #9
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    Nic,

    as the other guys mentioned - check the engine for telltale weeping (various oils and coolant residue). Td5 engines idle nice and fast without any strange fluctuations and roughness. Little black smoke immediate on start is ok, especially if it's still got it's cat, but you don't want to see any trace of blue or white smoke (even faint wisps) when the idle revs settle down.

    As discussed earlier, drive trains on 90's seldom give major issues. It is still a Land Rover, so you might have a little oil residue round joints and seals, but you do not want any evidence of hanging drips. This would be around the transfer case in particular, because any seal around the transfer case is a BIG job.

    On your test drive check for steering drift (cruising and braking) and with the clutch depressed the gear change must be smooth without hesitation to enter any of the gates.

    Sure there will be a lot more advice, but good luck with your deal and be assured you cannot buy a more capable off-the-shelf vehicle in it's class anywhere in the world! (New debate whether there actually is anything in a 90's class!)

    Cheers!

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