Yep, body roll is only an issue in quick left/right transitions, it just slows the response a bit.
The other time they can be good is say, a 130 heavily loaded with a high CofG, roll steer can be a real issue.
Years ago some Porsches only had anti-roll bars as an option.
 ForumSage
					
					
						ForumSage
					
					
                                        
					
					
						The first 2 is of my now retired disco , i took the front flex as far as possible without rose joints and a 3 link setup . The video is my current fender , by limiting the rear i forcing the front to work to its full potential . A much more predictable and balanced ride and no bodyroll onroad without swaybars . Both truck has/had retained spring . The clunk is GL front retainer ,great gear.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVP35a_Sb8g]Defender 110 on axletwister offroad - YouTube[/ame]
George
betsy53.jpg
betsy54.jpg
If you can't fix it with a hammer , you got an electrical problem .......
Reviving an old thread...trying to work out my suspension and how to improve the flex on a budget until I have enough coin to put a little more into it. Open to sugestions....
Current setup - +50mm King Springs with Std height Terrafirma Big Bore Expedition shocks. Std bumpstops frnt and rear...and under full flex (car rocking diagonally) axle is still nowhere near hitting the bumpstops as you can see. What is the limiting factor here/ springs? any ideas on how to get more flex on a budget appreciated!
Just a picture off the net, but this is how its done... :-)
Never really been into this sort of thing as RTV trialling and touring's been my thing from the start. Can't imagine this would be comfortable or safe in a "Road Taxed" environment.
Cheers,
Lou
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberHi Rick,
Looking at the picture of the shock, it looks like the shock has bottomed out?
Hi Rick79
Are you sure the shocks are standard length. They look longer. Best way to find out is undo the bottom nut on the rear shock pull it away and measure the extended length of the shock from the centre of the top eye of the shock to the bottom of the top bush ( where the bush seats on the diff) on the lower of the shock. If you get about 570mm fully opened its stock length.
Do the same but with the shock fully compressed. From memory stock will measure about 330 or 340mm compressed.
If your shock measures 370ishmm compressed its longer than stock by 50mm and your shock is bottoming out before your diff hits the bump stops. If this is the case theres a good chance you will break the shock at full compression.
Cheers
Michael.
thanks Michael,
yeah I thought they were longer too...but upon inspection of the shock I can see the terrafirma part numbers on them as well as 'std' after the part number. I then looked them up in the online catalogue and those numbers on them defiantly refer to std length big bore expdt shocks.
Thing that confuses me too is that the front esp as can see in the pics seem to be quite tucked under the guards under compression...but the bump stop is the same distance away from the axle as in the pic of the rear. ( I cannot get it to touch bump stops frnt or rear. I should still take the rear off and measure open and closed lengths I guess?
I had standard length Terra Firma big bore shocks in the back of my 04 Defender with standard springs and polyair inners and the bumpstops were defenitly touching, as were the front bumpstops (because they almost had a shine on them) with standard duty king springs .
hijacking an old thread again...
ok so i finnally have some coin comming soon to throw into suspension setup and get some flex happening!
I am a little unsure of a few things tho, and if my plans will work..
please see this thread, to offer advice...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/modified-z...usp-setup.html
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks