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Thread: 110 overheating

  1. #1
    showbag Guest

    110 overheating

    my landy keeps overheating only when i sit on 100km, iv relaced the thermostat, viscus hub and fan, flushed the radiator and replaced the coolant, the head gasket is fine and the presure tank cap is fine, what else could cause it to overheat.

  2. #2
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    First post! and welcome.

    Just a bit more info required for the brains trust here:

    What year, engine and mileage?
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  3. #3
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    over heating check list

    Quote Originally Posted by showbag View Post
    my landy keeps overheating only when i sit on 100km, iv relaced the thermostat, viscus hub and fan, flushed the radiator and replaced the coolant, the head gasket is fine and the presure tank cap is fine, what else could cause it to overheat.
    Hi Showbag

    As one_iota has asked, just a tad more info about the model and engine please.

    Common causes to all over heating problems in all vehicles, check the following;

    that nothing is draging, load, transmission binding, seized brakes etc.
    tyres at correct pressure.
    air flow through radiator is unrestricted, no mud or chaff in the fins.
    air lock in the cooling passages, coolant should be seen straight away when the plug on top of the motor is released.
    engine timing or mixture is wrong.

    less likely;
    is the thermostat stuck closed , they usally stick open if they fail.
    restriction to the coolant flow, cauld be something like a internally collapsed hose.

    Sometimes conditions can play a part, for example, a following wind and the fan cant get enough air flow to cool the radiator.
    And if you are really unlucky, a crack in the cylinder head or a porous block.
    Cheers and welcome, Arthur

  4. #4
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    Condition of radiator hoses? Fan working? Radiator blocked beyond ability of flush to clear it.

    Cheers
    Simon

  5. #5
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    Having the radiator rodded by a radiator specialist might be a good place to start as flushing won't necessarily get the crap out.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    You need to confirm it really is overheating. A high temperature reading can result from a faulty earth on the gauge. This can be checked by seeing whether it changes when the dash lights are switched on and off, bearing in mind that the gauge has a very slow reaction time.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Since its happening at speed, I'd be looking at the radiator being partially blocked or the water-pump not working properly.

  8. #8
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    Flushing the rad is pointless,it's rodding that does the job. Pat

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    squeaking water pump saga

    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Flushing the rad is pointless,it's rodding that does the job. Pat
    Hi Showbag

    As Pat has said, rodding is the way to go for making sure the radiator is clear, has this been done already?
    Another thing, that is a possibility, not long after I purchased my Defender flat tray, the water pump on the 300TDi motor started squeaking.
    Thinking that it was the bearing failing, I replaced it with a new one that had a stainless steel impeller, I also replaced the 'P' gasket and the waterpump bolts at the same time.

    But the old pump was not leaking through the seal and the bearing was good?????

    The squeaking problem was caused by the cast iron impeller, which had rusted badly and the rust was rubbing on the inside of the waterpump housing.


    Have you had a chance to look at your water pump impeller yet?

    Cheers Arthur

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