Why not use a 3 way mandraulic pipe selector mounted on the chassis and use the return line to put the excess into the main tank. Select which ever tank you want and the main tops up slowly.
Works on mine although it is a 110.
Cheers
I am setting up my MY2010 Defender cab/chas with an aux tank with transfer pump. Where is a good place to get a switched power source. I was going to pick up from the back of the cigarette lighter and tried to take the facia off the centre console but taking out the 2 big screws does not seem to release it and I am worried about break lugs off all these plastic bits.
Any suggestions ?
Why not use a 3 way mandraulic pipe selector mounted on the chassis and use the return line to put the excess into the main tank. Select which ever tank you want and the main tops up slowly.
Works on mine although it is a 110.
Cheers
Correct me if I'm wrong, but would that method run the risk of you completely draining the secondary tank and running the fuel pump dry when you empty the auxiliary tank.
On my Unimog I run a " 6 way Pollock vale" which electrically switches the feed between the two tanks, also switching the return line to the correct tank and even changing over the sender unit wiring. IIRC it cost me around $120 including delivery for the valve.
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
I've always found it best to keep all your owner fitted accessories isolated from the original wiring. I simply mount a multiple auxilliary fuse box somewhere convenient and close to the battery, run a single heavy wire from battery to fuse box and then run appropriate sized wire from the individual fuses to each of your accessories.
Roger
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks