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Thread: Sliding rear window for 130 - should I?

  1. 7th April 2011, 12:44 PM #1
    Tobacco Bush Guest

    Sliding rear window for 130 - should I?

    Have a 130 Dual Cab with tray top. The rear window in the cabin is a split sliding type but there are no fittings and it seems that the channel has been sealed up. The glass has the holes for the clamps and it is right to go.

    Not sure if this is the way it came from the factory or had been done by previous owner.

    Now, I'm thinking I would like to get it working. I know that it might rattle (what's one more?) and possibly leak (what's one more?) but anyway.

    Has anyone else done this and how might I go about it?
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  2. 7th April 2011, 01:12 PM #2
    The ho har's's Avatar
    The ho har's
    The ho har's is offline LordRover Subscriber
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    130 and 110 utes all have sliding rear windows from factory. A previous owner must have taken the locks off for some reason. Maybe you can get the locks and redo it.

    Works really well on hot days with just the vents open and rear window, nice air flow
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  3. 7th April 2011, 01:50 PM #3
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    akelly
    akelly is offline Wizard Gold Subscriber
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    Mine slides as nature intended - no leaks or rattles. If the channel is in good nick there is no reason for it to leak or rattle - sounds like you will need new channel and the catches, both can be got from a LR parts specialist (like Karcraft).

    They are great on a hot day, I'd go for it!
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  4. 7th April 2011, 06:15 PM #4
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    ericpicc
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    You can get the locks from John Craddock UK way cheaper then getting them from here.
    Part no. MTC8271 MTC8270 one will be dearer then the other they could not tell me why, should come to near to $40 for both (was given price of $75 each here) plus postage, you also may need to get channeling as well.
    Good luck
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  5. 7th April 2011, 08:19 PM #5
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    bambusa
    bambusa is offline Fossicker
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    I have a ute with the locks etc still in place. Previous owner has siliconed the windows in place though. I figure this is a job for spring/ summer as it doesn't leak at the moment.
    Going to get onto it right after I have finished painting the chassis (by hand).
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  6. 8th April 2011, 09:54 AM #6
    Tobacco Bush Guest
    Dear all,

    Thanks for the advice/leads as to how to do this.

    Am going to get on to it this weekend.

    Cheers.
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  7. 8th April 2011, 01:34 PM #7
    Don 130's Avatar
    Don 130
    Don 130 is offline ChatterBox Supporter
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    I copied this blurb from an earlier post of mine. Hope it's of some use.

    defender sliding windows

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    After getting the wrong sized bailey channel to fix my rattly window,I tracked down the wholesaler and got the code for the correct stuff. You can get it from them by calling in or by phone order /mailout. Also you can order it through any Clarke rubber store. The clarke bloke at castle hill (sydney), says he will also stock it. The code is ; 350.360 flocked bailey channel .The company; Spectrum
    4/4 Appin Pl
    Dunheved
    NSW 2760
    Ph (02)96235333
    Fx(02)98331041
    They also have a website ,but it's currently under repair or construction or something.
    You,ll need 4 metres to get right around both sliding panes of each window you tackle. This makes for a VERY snug fit. I ripped out both the upper and lower felt from my window even though the upper stuff was not in such a bad state, and perhaps there's a case for leaving the top felt in place and only replacing the bottom piece where all the crud and wear occurs. this option might result in an easier sliding finished job, and only use half the material. BTW the 4 meters I got cost about $29.00.
    Don.
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