Thread: Replacing the suspension bushes on a 1993 200 TDI 110

Originally Posted by ScottW

Thanks for the write-up. I'll have to tackle this in the near future.
What is the concensus on Bushes? I have heard that a mix of poly and rubber is best. I've also heard that some rubber bushes are rubbish. I'd assume poly for the steering and rubber for the bits that flex.
Since I don't want to be replacing them every 6 months, what's the best option?

Super Pro poly virtually everywhere IMO.

As flexible as the OE rubber ones, just more durable.

I'll correct myself, in some spots the Super Pro bushes allow more flex as they are a better design IMO.

Not cheap but well worth it.

I'm in the process of doing this with superpro kit. Damn it sure is hard pressing out the old ones with the metal sleeve on the outside. least ill know it will only be a hard job once as the only metal on the Superpro kit is the inner crush tube.

Good write up.

I've just done the same jobs on my 1995 130. I found plenty of slop in the upper panhard rod bush, but the bush was actually OK (not perfect but OK). The major wear was in the 8.8 bolt which was a bit odd, replaced the bush anyway. It was 2mm too long and needed to be gently ground also (would have been easier if I'd measured first but who's to know?).

Same with the rear A frame upper bushes. The bushes were OK but the bolts, UNF SAE 5, were quite worn. Replaced with UNF SAE 8.

Replaced the A frame ball joint. For me it was remove the 2 bolts holding the ball joint housing to the A frame arms after belting the casting with a 2 lb. hammer to 'pop' the ball joint. I've never had to use a 'ball joint extraction tool' and have found this method to always work. Saves having another 'special tool'. Removed/installed the ball joint as shown.

A tip to the uninitiated, don't even think about doing this without a press, hammers and bricks and sockets and vices just don't do it without an absolute maximum of fuss.

Deano