Thread: Rear Trailing Arms

Originally Posted by ugu80

Just bought a set of rear trailing arms (rear lower link arms in LR speak) from a UK mob called Adrenaline 4x4. Haven't fitted them yet but they certainly look the part. Good quality 40mm tube steel with 6mm walls. Double cranked for a 50mm (2") lift. They are on Ebay. Took 9 days from order to delivery.

What were the postage prices like and who did you use? I shot them off an email inquiring about their hd steering arms, cranked trailing arms and radius arms because their prices are fairly good but the postage quote really put me off. Nearly £460 pounds with DHL for 45 kgs! Keen to hear if there are others who have imported gear from UK for less than this sort of cost.

FWIW CDS is only the production method used to extrude the tube. I can buy chinese CDS hydraulic tube at bargain basement prices and it measures the same, looks the same and weighs the same but at the end of the day it rusts faster, doesn't test to the same specs and doesn't bend neatly (tends to crease on the inside radius). As for "FIA" spec again that only compares to the manufacturing process, the material is completely different again (FIA spec different sizes/walls depending on the parent material but anyone who doesn't use cro-moly isn't competing).

Originally Posted by Dusty1111

What were the postage prices like and who did you use? I shot them off an email inquiring about their hd steering arms, cranked trailing arms and radius arms because their prices are fairly good but the postage quote really put me off. Nearly £460 pounds with DHL for 45 kgs! Keen to hear if there are others who have imported gear from UK for less than this sort of cost.

The postage was about the same as the purchase price (forget exactly) so all up was around double the ebay price, but still cheaper than a lot of others. I would also like to point out how surprised I was at the negative comments my post solicited by people who know nothing of this company or its product. I do not impulse buy. I research as much I can. I could not find one comment of a disatisfied customer or report of breakage anywhere in the world. What I found was that this is a small company run by a young enthusiast who produces a quality product.

I fitted the Equipe 4x4 kinked units and have found them to be really good, the truck has a 2 inch lift and had to extend the rear brake lines to allow for the extra travel.
As for the kinked arms being weaker - I am no expert but they are gussetted with tig welded angle along their entire length and look much more solid than the stock items.

Hopenthat hasn't muddied the waters any.....

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Just do this
"However I laminated my arms myself by sleeving them with tube (CDS I think)"

Or be cheap and use NB32 Heavy. It is 42mm OD with 4mm wall. Sleeves stock arms nicely. A laminated straight arm will be stronger than any single wall seamless tube or pipe.

Steve

Im getting the Landy ready for the 12month round Oz trip so the Trailing arms probably need upgrading.

So I'm going the DIY laminate path, My TA's are 28mm OD ,
and if my sums are right isnt 42mm OD 4mm wall going to be 34mm ID ??

So do the sleeves only fit loosely? I thought you'd want an tight or interferance fit.

Do you have to grind the factory welds off , that would not leave much holding the inner tube inplace, or does the sleeve fit over the welds.
cheers .. Don

pic below of Trailing Arm in my 04 TD5 Defender 110, Salisbury fitted but I assume original TA's

Originally Posted by goingbush

Im getting the Landy ready for the 12month round Oz trip so the Trailing arms probably need upgrading.

So I'm going the DIY laminate path, My TA's are 28mm OD ,
and if my sums are right isnt 42mm OD 4mm wall going to be 34mm ID ??

So do the sleeves only fit loosely? I thought you'd want an tight or interferance fit.

Do you have to grind the factory welds off , that would not leave much holding the inner tube inplace, or does the sleeve fit over the welds.
cheers .. Don

pic below of Trailing Arm in my 04 TD5 Defender 110, Salisbury fitted but I assume original TA's

The original RA has the end inertia/friction/spun welded on.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aEuAK8bsQg]Inertia Friction Welding Demonstration - Manufacturing Technology, Inc. - YouTube[/ame]

So grinding back the lip does not weaken the weld.

Originally Posted by Benny_IIA

A bit of a waste of money, because you loose all the rubber from the bottom of the bush, in turn it will not give as must done travel as the std bush fitted with cranked arms.

i doubt this very much, i have offset bushes with standard straight arms with DIY small angle welded to the bottom, i have miles of travel, shock lengths and unrestrained coils limit u before offset bushes. i havent bent a arm yet with sticky 37's, stroked v8 and plenty of load pedal, and dare i say it going to places most of u wouldn't. i get hung up on the chassis mounts constantly and slide/bounce over rocks on my rear arms constantly - n.b. the rear of a 90 has not much weight in it.

Originally Posted by def-90

i doubt this very much, i have offset bushes with standard straight arms with DIY small angle welded to the bottom, i have miles of travel, shock lengths and unrestrained coils limit u before offset bushes. i havent bent a arm yet with sticky 37's, stroked v8 and plenty of load pedal, and dare i say it going to places most of u wouldn't. i get hung up on the chassis mounts constantly and slide/bounce over rocks on my rear arms constantly - n.b. the rear of a 90 has not much weight in it.

Interesting,
My rear trailing arm to chassis mount bushes are absolutely knackered after only 4 trips,and they were genuine.Have been thinking about putting Super Pro bushes.
But interested if you used the LRA offset bushes Sam?
I run double wall cranked rear arms on my 110,and it certainly gets a workout,but would expect a bit more than 4 trips out of rear bushes.

Wayne