Thread: Replacing Defender Door hinge - Any tips/tricks?

Hi Andrew,

The nuts behind are captive. They are held by a spring clip which is easily removed once the hinge is off. You'll probably need to do this because it's highly likely at least the bottom nuts will be rusted to the bolts and you'll need to drill the bolt heads off. Go to a bolt shop and buy a set of stainless bolts (far cheaper that buying a "kit"), but (I think) you'll have to go "genuine" for new nuts. The whole job isn't all that hard; easier if you have an assistant to take the weight of the door.

If you're feeling a little more adventurous, you can convert the standard hinges to be greasable -
Greasable, slop free, rebuildable Defender hinges

When you order the door hinge, order 2 captive nuts and the bolts as well. It is more than likely the nuts will be unusable. They new nuts are pretty easy to insert.

When installing, use a bit of moly, graphite or similar grease.



Erich

Thanks guys....I'll order some stainless steel bolts as well as replacement captive nuts

Cheers
Andrew

Another question - I understand that I need two cages and captive nuts for the bulkhead side of the hinge, but what about the door side? Are there captive nuts of just nyloc's?

Sorry I haven't had a chance to take the door card off to have a look.

Cheers

Andrew

They are just normal, everyday nuts. If you look around the front edge of the door card you should be able to just see them. I did know all of the lengths/sizes/threads for these about a year ago when I bought mine, but I've forgotten. I think they are 5/16 UNF, but not sure. The original ones will probably be still ok because they are inside the cab away from the elements, but if you're going stainless bolts, you may as well.........