Thread: PUMA - Drivetrain Upgrade

Originally Posted by pc3

Drover would the part # differ for a 130 PUMA....no ABS etc. ?

Ashcroft's web site only lists 90's and 110's.

I would say that 130's would be same as the 110's.

I didn't use part numbers just told them what vehicle the parts were for and what parts I wanted.

Cheers

Originally Posted by wagoo

Drover, Do you know if the outer splines on the halfshafts and matching drive flanges are longer than standard? The longer splines on the earlier 110's to 200TDIs lasted a very long time even allowing for that they were oil lubricated.
Wagoo.

When I bought my Maxi ones all those years ago Paula suggested i go for the X version Mal made as they use the longer spline, and by a couple of comments on here over the years it makes a difference.

Originally Posted by rick130

When I bought my Maxi ones all those years ago Paula suggested i go for the X version Mal made as they use the longer spline, and by a couple of comments on here over the years it makes a difference.

Rick, with your trucks rear wheels having ''more toe in than your fronts'' longer splines, on more snug fitting MD shafts and drive flanges, do you find that your drive flange bolts regularly work loose?
Wagoo.

Originally Posted by wagoo

Rick, with your trucks rear wheels having ''more toe in than your fronts'' longer splines, on more snug fitting MD shafts and drive flanges, do you find that your drive flange bolts regularly work loose?
Wagoo.

I experienced loose bolts after fitting maxi axles and flanges with the bolts that they supplied. I never used loctite, but cured that problem by using longer bolts - had to pilot drill part of the threads from the hub, to accommodate the longer body length of the bolts I had.

Originally Posted by Drover

...

They also mention to keep flange and axel lubricated to avoid "fretting corrosion".

...

For those who don't know what fretting corrosion is, it is a type of corrosion that occurs as a result of relative movement at the joint between mating parts. The corrosion appears like red rust.

It can occur even between tight fitting parts - commonly seen between bearings and shafts.

Actually I measured toe out on the rear last time I strung the car, and that was nine years ago when I last had a flat piece of concrete to work on

But no, never had the problem that some do of bolts working loose and didn't use oversized bolts either, just standard bolts, standard paper 'star' gaskets, cleaned surfaces and 243 Loctite.

Originally Posted by rick130

Actually I measured toe out on the rear last time I strung the car, and that was nine years ago when I last had a flat piece of concrete to work on

But no, never had the problem that some do of bolts working loose and didn't use oversized bolts either, just standard bolts, standard paper 'star' gaskets, cleaned surfaces and 243 Loctite.

So your axle may not necessarily be out of true. My experience and theory is that any vehicle that regularly loosens or breaks driveflange bolts probably has a bent axle housing. This problem seemed to be more common on Discoveries with one piece axle driveflange units, but I have known it to occurr on some Defenders and Series vehicles after being fitted with the more precisely made Maxidrive units. The relatively loose tolerances of the standard stuff worked a bit like a universal joint to compensate for the misalignment.
I just got a sense of De Ja Vu. Have I written all this tosh before?
Wagoo.

mmmm nice shiny new parts,