Thanks for the reply Dave.As you say,the wasting isn't obvious in the photos, but the better finish and lack of stress risers compared to the originals certainly is.Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtrans
Wagoo.
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Thanks for the reply Dave.As you say,the wasting isn't obvious in the photos, but the better finish and lack of stress risers compared to the originals certainly is.Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtrans
Wagoo.
[QUOTE=wagoo;1528910]Bill - I should have added "in real world LR applications" to the end of that sentence.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
I was trying to say there is no evidence that waisted axles will make any of the other components last longer in a landie - in a measurable real world sense.
E.g. All the waisting in the world won't stop the crownwheel flexing away from the pinion under drive torque.
Waisting shafts and head bolts etc. that are subject to shock loads will greatly increase their life if done properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
This is done to increase the resilience so the energy from shock loads is absorbed by converting it to strain energy in the material.
Taking as example a typ half shaft, there is a stress raiser at the splines, which limits the static strength. If the shaft is not waisted, the torsional stress in the unwaisted section will be much lower than at the spline section.
Waisting the shaft so as much of the shaft as possible is stressed to the same level, maximises the resilience and the strain energy that can be created. The stress in the half shaft is not greater than at the splines, but the shock load seen by components, including half shaft, cv's, ring and pinion is reduced by the impact energy absorbed as strain energy in the shaft.
Details such as stress reducers (e.g. fillets where diameters change) should be used.
[QUOTE=isuzurover;1529168]People can claim that because fatigue life can vary by a lot, particularly because the load spectrum will vary greatly, but it doesn't make it a correct statement.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
[QUOTE=isuzurover;1529168]Ben, the crownwheel wouldn't flex away from the pinion if the wheels had no traction. and IMHO it is doubtful that even standard 2 pinion carrier would flex even at maximum tractive effort.I believe it is shock loads that flex the carriers, and either destroy diffs instantlly, or contribute to fatigue that leads to failure even when the diff is subject to relatively light loads. Since shock torque is generally much greater than drive torque, a shock absorbing medium such as a torsionally flexible halfshaft must reduce carrier flex and contribute to longer life.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
Wagoo.
Front End - here we go....
Wheel and Brake calliper off, 2 x 13mm bolts and release clip on brake line to remove calliper. Factory drive flange removed 5 x 17mm bolts plus one cir clip on the end of the axel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/680.jpg
Next remove hub, 6 x 17mm bolts
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/681.jpg
Hub off, CV joint and axel exposed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/682.jpg
Ensure wheels are straight, then simple pull out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/683.jpg
The factory CV and Axel compared to the Ashcroft items
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/684.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/685.jpg
The next 2 photo's are of the end on the axel that fits in to the CV and the CV, the small cir clip must be depressed while pushing the axel into the CV, push until you hear a click and the axel is fitted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/686.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/687.jpg
To convert the PUMA front wheel bearings to oil lubricated you need to replace a grease seal with an oil seal at the back of the disk assembly shown
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/688.jpg
Part number shown.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/689.jpg
You also need to remove another oil seal located inside the hub. There is a roller bearing race in front of this seal. Do Not attempt to remove this bearing. Use a screw diver and gentle collapse the oil seal and remove. This will allow the diff oil to migrate along the CV shaft out to the wheel bearings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/08/690.jpg
Reverse the process, use loctite as you go and your done.
A suddenly applied load at zero speed will double the static load. In the real world most shock loads also include motion which adds kinetic energy to the doubled load.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
Drover, Is there only a single wheel bearing adjusting nut on Deefers now? If so how is it locked in place?
Just to clarify to avoid possible confusion, the component you called a hub is actually the stub axle or spindle in American terminology. The hub is the component that contains the wheel bearings and the brake disc is bolted to.
Wagoo..
Okay cool, hub, spindle - got it....Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
Yes, only one giant nut, 2 1/16 or 52mm.
Locks in place by bending over a rim of thinner metal on the outside of the nut. The "spindle" ;) has a machined flat edge that allows the rim of the nut to push against, once folded over, stopping it from working loose.
Not sure about adjustments, was told be English Auto service just do it up as tight as you can get it.
Did it that way, could still turn the "hub" ;) with only slight resistance by hand, so it seemed okay.
Have done nearly 250k's since Friday and all is well, not even an oil leak since converting from grease to oil lubed bearings - happy days....
Bill, IIRC it's been that way since the TD5 came out.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
I think they use a machined spacer between the two taper rollers so that the pre-load is factory set and you just do the nut up as Drover said.