Thanks Rick. 300TDIs are the last models I've been intimate with. But how do you compensate for wear in the wheelbearings? Shims like a Rover diff pinion?Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Wagoo.
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Thanks Rick. 300TDIs are the last models I've been intimate with. But how do you compensate for wear in the wheelbearings? Shims like a Rover diff pinion?Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Wagoo.
Bill, I don't have personal experience with TD5 or later wheel bearings (so stand to be corrected), but have seen them described as unit bearings. What I infer from the name unit bearing, is a one piece outer ring and 2 cones with pre load as Rick said.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
I suspect (but don't know) they are renewed and not adjusted when worn, but wear combined with closer bearing spacing, is not an advance over earlier arrangements IMHO.
A quick search turned up this on landyzone...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
Edit, not sure if this is Defender or Disco though...Quote:
When they say "buy the whole hub" they don't mean that you end up buying a quarter of a ton of front axle bits.
The front wheel bearing bearing unit in a TD5 axle isn't made from plain ordinary bearings that you can buy for a couple of pounds. That would be too easy. Its a made up unit, two roller bearings inside a casing, and the casing bolts directly to the outer end of the steering knuckle, It could hardly be easier. You might need a hand pressing the hub out of the bearing - if it comes out. Rave does not say it comes out, and may suggest the rotating hub flange comes with the bearing as a set.
Rave says
"The outer race of the hub bearing is bolted to the steering knuckle. The hub bearing is a sealed unit which contains twin opposed roller bearings, pre-packed with grease during manufacture. A toothed ABS sensor ring is integrated into the inner race of the hub bearing. An opening in the outer race of the hub bearing accommodates the ABS sensor."
So the bearing is a special thing for the TD5 axles, but you most certainly can change them, and 150 ft-lbs torque isn't as tight as all that.
These bearings are fundamentally NOT THE SAME as ordinary Landy Axles used to be, and you MUST tighten up the hub nut (drive shaft nut) good and tight just as the good book says. If you don't, the bearing will run slack and the whole lot will get wrecked in no time, and your brakes will fail when the disc starts wobbling.
Some of the advice you have been given does NOT relate to TD5 axles, and the big box socket thing is NOT required.
CharlesY
I have also turned up search results which suggest the non-abs TD5 defenders have wheel bearings the same as earlier models? So maybe this change (downgrade) was brought about by the need to make sure the ABS sensors always had a constant signal?
Thanks John and Ben, or is it Basil?
I think the Landyzone description is for a Disco axle because the Defender ABS sensor and toothed ring is on the swivel housing and cv joint respectively,not in the hub.Might be the same principal of course.Either way I agree it sounds like a retrograde step from a remote area field servicability/ survivability perspective,although i did read somewhere that its possible to retrofit 300tdi hubs, bearings, twin locknuts and locktabs to the spindles.
Wagoo.
The L322 series RR's are the same,the hub assembly is replaced as one unit.It's not a bad idea as an assembled hub could be carried and simply changed over if worst comes to worst,the bigger worry is if one of the bearings welds itself to the stub. Pat
Ben's description above is for the Disco.
I just booted up RAVE and it shows basically the same setup as for the Tdi except it uses the spacer between the bearings and a single stake nut ?
No removable shims mentioned at all Bill, maybe JC will chime in as I've never worked on anything later than a tdi either.
I'll try and copy the page tonight, it boots up in Acrobat 4 and I don't run any version of Acrobat anymore, I use Nitro PDF instead of the bloody resource hog Adobe.
Rick130Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Bearing adjustment on a TD5 is measured using dial indicator from hub to stake nut. Setting is 0mm endfloat it is adjusted by changing spacer. Spacers are listed in manual at 0.1mm incriments also they are colour coded. 15.5mm to 14.9mm available. Not sure how you go if you end up with preload. My wheel bearings are due to be changed soon. I hope that the tolerances on bearings these days should allow the reuse of the spacer. Would only require spacer change if changing hubs?.
Mark
You can swap back to the old type of adjustment by removing the spacer and getting the 2 nuts and tab washer I believe.
Sounds like the redesign was so assembly line staff or some dealership mechanics without a clue couldn't stuff things up to much, but isn't of much use for trackside maintenance unless one carries the tools to grind down the spacer.but at least they haven't changed the stub axle, so a pair of wheel bearings,the older style nuts, thrust washer, lock tab and hub seal should be carried in the tool box if venturing into remote areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by big harold
wagoo.
I don't really think there's any conspiricy involved,it's common for wheels bearings to lossen up with the double nut set-up but by having a spacer to lock up against makes that less of an issue. Pat