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Actually the crud is generally caused by poor combustion. Dirty injectors can create alot of crud.Quote:
Originally Posted by kentkal
I'll find out if EGR's are used on high performance engines. My neighbour builds professional rally engines for a living. ;)
But I do know they run catalytic coverters. Another item all to quick to be eliminated.
When I stated "high performance" I was actually refering to the puma engine, as it does work hard. Guessing the duty cycle of the engine would be in the region of 75%. Not much room for anything not to be working at/or near optimum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nobbyclrk
I know most of the very high output Subaru WRX and Skylines dump the cats when after extra power, again not legal, and yes they have EGR valve's, at least I know Subaru do. Autronic and other after market ECU's get around the light on the dash/limp mode even the MAF problem as with these ECU's the MAF is not used, and as with after market tunes on Land Rover the EGR is shut down. Pro rally teams I doubt would de-cat or shut down EGR valves on their vehicles but if you have the car and the cash they will do it for you, the team cars do use after market ECU's.
Allan
G'day. I bought my Defender 110 new in 2008. Had my first EGR valve replaced by ULR under warranty in Melbourne at approximately 30,000km. The new one started making that noise almost immediately. I have put up with it for a while now (Vehicle now done 67,000km) but it recently started displaying some new symptoms other than the noise on engine shut down.
To begin with I noticed the engine making a lot of 'Whooshing' noise on turbo spool-up from the snorkel (LR fitted as new). This has now ceased however, at that point the engine started to surge just a little bit particularly under load maintaining approximately 80km per hr, 5th gear, 2300rpm going up hill. Since then I have noticed that under acceleration and particularly holding the speed mentioned above, the vehicle is expelling thick black exhaust fumes like never before. Very embarrassing when driving over Brisbanes gateway bridge with other traffic behind me!
Has anyone else experienced this problem please or have any suggestions?
Cheers!
Remap. Pat
The black smoke is indicative of over fuelling which can result if active boost is not being achieved. Do you know if any DTC's are logged in the ECU and if so what are they? If the EGR valve was stuck open the Puma would be sluggish and would smoke a bit so if you can hear it completing its self clean cycle and think it is closed, unplug it and go for a drive and see if the smoking still occurs. You will get the MIL illuminated and a couple of DTC's will be logged as well, P1402 and P1409. Does the Puma still pull as normal? Pumas have had a recall for the Turbo modulator harness being damaged due to heat and vibration damage resulting in broken wires. I would check the modulator wiring as well as the turbo modulators actuator control bar is free and is not sticking. Also there should be some movement in the bar and it should twist slightly from side to side. The next thing would be to remove and clean the MAP sensor as this is the sensor the ECU uses to control the angle of the variable vanes in the turbo by way of the modulator.
Turbo Modulator Harness
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/..._1098Large.jpg
Turbo Modulator Electrical connection plug:
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/..._1093Large.jpg
Turbo Actuator control bar, you can see the modulator arm at the top and the vane control arm at the bottom.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
MAP sensor and EGR locations:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
If you have a nanocom etc, you can check the live engine data for MAP pressure and what the EGR is doing at full throttle. If the MAF sensor has failed this would result in higher fuel use that could lead to excessive black smoke as the ECU reverts to stored values for fuelling calculations? If you think it is the MAF then they are not serviceable and need replacing, though they are not expensive, about £35 in the UK.
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/...11020-1237.jpg
Turbo Modulator Service Bulletin:
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/.../Turbomod1.jpg
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/.../Turbomod2.jpg
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/.../Turbomod3.jpg
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/.../Turbomod4.jpg
HTH Brian.
30,000km service yesterday. (2010 Puma)
EGR valve is going to get replaced under warranty, as it is making excessive noise.
I have just come back from two weeks in the Flinders Ranges in South Australia. Had the car serviced, set off on the trip and wouldn't you know it, MIL warning (engine warning lamp) comes on 400km later. Scangauge read P0404 which is an EGR fault. Luckily was only 20km from a S.A. dealer who confirmed my thoughts. Car ran O.K. apart from light. They had no time to look at it and suggested a dealer in a capital city might be able to look at it. I contacted a dealer and the parts guy was fantastic. He ordered a new EGR for me just in case and I picked it up the next day as they got it in from Sydney overnight. Unfortunately the service people were very busy and did not want to know about my problem even though all I wanted was for them to plug into the OBD and confirm the fault reading so I could make an informed choice as to continue into the more isolated parts of South Australia. I was wanting to pay for their time. I was told if I brought it in 4 days later they would look at it. Spare parts guy fantastic,10/10, service 0/10.
MIL cleared either by use of scangauge or if fault does not reoccur will self clear after 4 start-ups of car. Took the part and risk and headed further north. MIL came on 1200km later but self cleared again. MIL came on twice in 4500km.
Using scanegauge reading found that when EGR was at 100%, engine sounded tinny or like injector rattle. Not so evident under throttle load, but more evident under light throttle load. EGR would operate most of the time changing continuously but would stick on 100% at least once or twice a day and the engine did not sound sweet. Stopping the car and switching off would get the EGR operating to what I felt was normal. Will be fitting new EGR and see what difference it makes.
If you don't have a scangauge, spend the $200.00 or so and get one. Fantastic little device. New EGR cost $300.00 discounted including gaskets. I thought about fitting it on the run but the bolt access under the manifold and behind valve actuator looked tricky. Cars performance and fuel consumption was not affected. In the end I could tell when the EGR was at 100% by the sound of the engine. Also EGR valve cleaning cycle is getting louder for sure. My 2007 Puma had just had the 50,000km service done. This fault was in no way related to the service, just bad luck.
Thought this information might be useful for others.
P.S. Apart from the problem, the Defender was fantastic to drive over some tough tracks, great fuel consumption at 90-95km/hr and inspired confidence in everything I attempted. Land Rover service average. May be I should stick a Range Rover badge on the front of the Defender as ther service manager was wearing a suit! Can I say that on a forum? Its the way I felt. I will edit it if required.
Better still...
Spend a bit more - Get a BAS Tuning module!
You'll get a better tune, more power and torque.
Better fuel economy.
And - A built in scan gauge.
And... The mapping disables the EGR fully closed so no more EGR issues ever!
Skuilnaam,Quote:
Originally Posted by skuilnaam
Sounds good to me. Did not know it had diagnostics built in. Will have to fit the new EGR then BAS Tune it. As you say, no more EGR issues.
Thanks