Thread: Puma 90 rear storage ideas or photos?

I removed both seats to get as much packing space as possible. I then got a drawer system made, and replaced the rear side windows with gullwing doors.

Fridge goes on the drawer system in the middle and there's space on either side for 4 ammo boxes stacked 2x2 and easily accessible via the gullwing door.s.

Some pics:






For loose bulky & light items I fitted a net from mudstuff:




I removed the silly plastic trim, which then gives a rectangular load bay, else the ammo boxes would not fit.

Being a 90 you got little option but to remove the seats. Take pictures and write up some notes while you take them out and you can have both back in 30 minutes if you need to.

The way I approached it is as follows:

The biggest issue would be to remain "modular" so you can remove your touring setup easily enough for normal daily operation. I've gone for a deck or false floor in the back that opens up a whole range of options. The first step would be to cut a piece of marine ply (9mm range) 1200mm x 900mm and fitting it on the floor under the tie downs. This will safe you scuffing the hell out of the rubber mat. Next get 4 boxes as Naks described (Wolff from OL works well as they've originally been designed as ammunition boxes in South Africa to fit 2 long and 2 wide in military Land Rovers) and work out the exact height a deck has to be to allow you to slide them in underneath. I use the furtherest forward ones for heavy recovery gear as it's easy enough to reach.

The deck will have to be in two pieces as a full width one won't go through the door, but once installed you've created around 450 liters of storage in boxes under the deck and you have the full width of a HCPU to play with ideas in the back. Naks' gull wing doors and plastic trim removal will be a good option from here as well. The only reason I don't have those is the zero visibility from the D-pillar to the rear door and as I put the seats back when neccesary, I quite like the trim (just personal choice).

I'll post some pictures this evening (car's at home!)

Cheers,

Thanks for all the info, looking forward to seeing some more photos.

This is the rear draws in my 90








Lived out of them for 8 months and they move from the 90 to the 110 depending on what we are doing with each one

Ali

My 2010 D90 has both rear seats removed. I don't like draws and believe they waste space and limit camp options, but accept that this view is not held by others. Though I would add that my preference is the same as expedition leader extraordinaire Tom Sheppard. My basic layout sits on top of a piece of carpeted builders plywood that sits between the wheel boxes. To the ply I have fixed a non sliding fridge mount and a number of small lashing points. I don't use a sliding fridge mount because the fridge is low enough that I can easily access it while it is in place and because I don't need to move it I can pack around it more closely. the fridge is a 50 litre National Luna Twin Weekender that gives me 40 litres of normal fridge and a 10 litre freezer. The fridge sits longways on the passenger side, up against the rear door. Between the fridge and the passenger seat, I have a 28 litre plastic storage bin full of recovery gear. That bin sits on two lengths of timber that serve as jacking plates etc, but more importantly the timber raises the top of the storage bin to level with two 20 litre stainless jerry cans (for drinking water) that neatly sit on their edge between the bin and the wheel box (ie behind the driver). The jerrys are lashed in place. Between the jerrys and the rear door (next to the fridge) I have four 28 litre plastic bins (two deep x two high) that has cooking gear (not the stove) and other smaller camping items and food. The two burner gas stove fits between the fridge and the boxes. On top of the recovery gear sits an ARB portable compressor and a box of fishing tackle. On top of the passenger side wheel box sits sleeping gear (mats, bags, pillows) and clothes. On the drivers side wheel box are a range of things including a bucket and a 10 litre water drum for use through the day. On top of the food and camping gear bins sit a couple of fold-up chairs. I cover the lot with a large 'heavy' cotton floor map that I also use on the floor of the tent. The tent (Southern Cross Ultimate 10) is carried on the roof rack (with very little else). I have a stainless table that slide under the roof rack (both Front Runner). I used to carry the gas bottle inside the bucket but have just had a Front Runner gas bottle bracket fitted to the rear of the vehicle (by Mulgo). Tools were carried on the wheel box, behind the driver, but I now have an X-box fitted (with all the electrics) (again by Mulgo, thanks Daniel) so will put the tools in the drivers seat box along with what ever else I can cram in. When I get to the campsite, I can quickly unload the four storage bins containing food, cooking gear, etc. and place conveniently.

Cheers
KarlB

Reading KarlB's mail it seems we've gone for roughly the same concept. As described before, I've basically created a deck to allow 4 "ammo boxes" to slide in underneath. These boxes contain the heaviest of my equipment (recovery gear etc) as they are in the lowest loadable position. The "deck' is then available for any configuration you like. I've decided against a fridge slide as it takes up considerably more space than the fridge does on its own. I also run the National Luna weekender and I've got a Front Runner Wind Cheetah full length (2.0m) rack for my lighter stuff.

As KarlB and I've discussed on a previous thread, fuel remains a bit of a hassle to me as I'm still reluctant to fit the extra filler caps required for the long range tanks. I carry 4 jerries on bespoke Wind Cheetah mounts on the rack. Not the best option for centre of gravity, but I have to live with it for now!

Decided on twin belly tanks in the end and now have a 145 litres capacity (and three fuel filler caps!). Options to avoud the extra fillers would be a combined filler for the main and driver side aux tank (Mulgo fabricates them). And and extra pump for the passenger aux tank that would fill it by pumping from the main or from the driver side aux tank.

Cheers
KarlB

Originally Posted by KarlB

Decided on twin belly tanks in the end and now have a 145 litres capacity (and three fuel filler caps!). Options to avoud the extra fillers would be a combined filler for the main and driver side aux tank (Mulgo fabricates them). And and extra pump for the passenger aux tank that would fill it by pumping from the main or from the driver side aux tank.

Cheers
KarlB

Or use a replacement tank from Long Ranger Automotive (LRA) 140L capacity.

No pumps -
No extra fuel lines and only the original filler cap....