Thread: ECU protection when fitting a towbar

I've have the trailer light coming on with a bull bar and the indicator lights on the bull bar. The trailer light works off voltage and if it's higher than some special, the trailer indicator comes on. Under the plastic flap in front of the indicator/brake lights under the rear right guard is a plug for the towbar wiring harness.

Thanks found the necessary plug in point. Just needed to look more carefully.......

Quick stupid Q for everyone. I'm getting a dealer fitted hayman reece tow bar on my 2013 defender. Do I need an electric brake controller unit or does the defender computer gadget do that for me?

Originally Posted by debruiser

Quick stupid Q for everyone. I'm getting a dealer fitted hayman reece tow bar on my 2013 defender. Do I need an electric brake controller unit or does the defender computer gadget do that for me?

You'll need a brake control unit.

FYI: From my dealer re: MY15 110 with OEM tow pack:
"You do not need any fancy ECU’s or ECM’s to wire your brake unit into your Defender.
You can pick-up the feed wires in the r/h/r ¼ panel area, above the tail-light and wire into the Teckonsha brake unit in the front of the vehicle. Very simple and basic.
We can fit it for you if you wish. We would charge approx. $150.00 + any wires, terminals etc."

There still seems to be some confusion over fitting tow bar to 2.2 puma Defender. I've just had two quotes to supply Hayman Reece tow bar @$550 and $650 respectively, and both say I must use a special ecu loom @$220. Is new loom necessary? Does this loom plug into the socket In the wheel arch? Has anyone fitted one of these recently? Any advice appreciated.

Originally Posted by MrLandy

There still seems to be some confusion over fitting tow bar to 2.2 puma Defender. I've just had two quotes to supply Hayman Reece tow bar @$550 and $650 respectively, and both say I must use a special ecu loom @$220. Is new loom necessary? Does this loom plug into the socket In the wheel arch? Has anyone fitted one of these recently? Any advice appreciated.

No ECU necessary, the genuine LR "N Type" towing electrics don't have it and they plug straight into the provided socket near the fuel tank.

I think its just Hayman Reese trying to flog you a box of nothing to get an extra couple of hundred dollares out of you.

I just bought this one (same as what you are after?) for $530, with no ECU or plug & tail.

I've ordered a genuine N type plug & tail from Rimmer Bro's in the UK for about $50 less than I could get from the local dealer for. It also mounts in a better position, in the cross member where its protected better than something down on the towbar.

Thanks Beery, that's very helpful.
Cheers