roverdrive overdrive

IMO that is very good. Mine will not run at those temps. What is the humidity like over there? Do you have a winch if any spring lift?

Nor mine.
I was touching 105* last week crossing a range which is only a molehill compared to the Andes :(

My radiator hasn't had the stupidly large bleed hole soldered up in the header tank divider plate yet, which doesn't help.

Admittedly the EGT's were on the wrong side of 720*C too, so I was fair up it. :angel:

Hi Santiago, and welcome to the forum.:)

In my opinion.If you do fit a Roverdrive make sure you fit the larger sump with the cooling fins, plus a transfer case temp gauge . This allows you to add (including the oil placed in the Rover drive its self) an extra litre off oil to the system.
As the Roverdrive itself generates very little heat when in the disengaged position you always have the option of disengaging the overdrive and having a more effectively cooled transfer box than it was originally.
I just wish that I had had a transfer box temp gauge before fitting the larger sump so as I new what temperatures I have been generating in the past. Quite high at times I suspect.:o
Sometimes ignorance is bliss.:D
Dave

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Originally Posted by rick130

Nor mine.
I was touching 105* last week crossing a range which is only a molehill compared to the Andes :(

My radiator hasn't had the stupidly large bleed hole soldered up in the header tank divider plate yet, which doesn't help.

Admittedly the EGT's were on the wrong side of 720*C too, so I was fair up it. :angel:

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thats hot in my book....:(

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Originally Posted by uninformed

IMO that is very good. Mine will not run at those temps. What is the humidity like over there? Do you have a winch if any spring lift?

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The humidity is usually quite low were I live (dry place), but variable depending on what part of the country you go to (in Argentina precipitations go from >3,000mm to <100mm per year, depending on where you are, just to give you an idea of the variations you can expect).

I have a low profile winch (a Milemarker 95000) at the front which does not cover the radiator at all and the D110 has a small (33mm), basic lift. Something like an inch and a half.

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Originally Posted by sdt463

Hi Santiago, and welcome to the forum.:)

In my opinion.If you do fit a Roverdrive make sure you fit the larger sump with the cooling fins, plus a transfer case temp gauge . This allows you to add (including the oil placed in the Rover drive its self) an extra litre off oil to the system.
As the Roverdrive itself generates very little heat when in the disengaged position you always have the option of disengaging the overdrive and having a more effectively cooled transfer box than it was originally.
I just wish that I had had a transfer box temp gauge before fitting the larger sump so as I new what temperatures I have been generating in the past. Quite high at times I suspect.:o
Sometimes ignorance is bliss.:D
Dave

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Thanks for the advice Dave. When I spoke with Ray Wood he suggested using the sump cover with fins as well. Just because of the engine (2.8 TGV).

Yes Roamerdrive now not Roverdrive. Nasty Correspondence with lawyers......

Some comments on what is becoming a very long thread.....

Oils. We insist on 'pure' GL4. Some GL5 and GL4-5 are fine but some others form black deposits that block oil passages when hot. Result is damaged syncros or thrust washer failure in the epicyclic gearing and an expensive repair not covered by warranty. Interesting article here http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

I suspect Land Rover has come to the same conclusion as regards gearboxes they are now pushing Texaco MTF 94 which is a synthetic GL4 gearbox lubricant see MTF 94 | Texaco engine oils and lubricants.

Our current model Defender overdrive has a revised filler plug and an oil information plate to remind service people to use appropriate oils. See Global Roamer Corporation If you have an older Defender unit I'll happily mail you a plug and plate. E mail OD serial number.

We typically only list distributors on our website who buy directly from us and are committed to stocking all our products. We don't list agencies or resellers.

Ray Wood
Global Roamer Corporation.

Bloody lawyers! :mad:

Boy Scouts can call themselves "Rover" without upsetting Mr Tata, so why shouldn't others be able to do the same?

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Originally Posted by rick130

Most all synthetic GL5 oils are buffered, ie the sulphur EP additive is deactivated to prevent discolouration and corrosion of copper based components.

A buffered GL5 diff/transaxle fluid like Castrol Syntrax, Motul Gear 300, Torco RTF, etc are fine.
They have a Copper discolour rating of 1b so yellow metals are inert.

Even most straight diff oils use buffered sulphur these days to prevent copper corrosion, but you do have to check.
If in doubt find a technical or product data sheet and look for the copper corrosion number.

If you are still concerned Redline MT90 or Castrol Syntrans M (for Eaton and Rockwell gearboxes) are 75W-90 GL4 full synthetic manual gearbox fluids.
There are others but I remember these two off the top of my head.

Personally I'd go for one of the former fluids listed, they just give a measure of protection above a GL4 fluid in situations of extreme heat/loads.

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Also MT1 ('manual transmission') spec GL5 gear oils SHOULD be ok for the 'yellow' metals in the drive, however Ray was adamant that only GL4 be used. I've recently bought (but haven't yet fit) a roverdrive for our 1995 300 TDI 110.

Thanks, Ray, for coming in again regarding oils. I was pleased to read that non-synthetic GL4 is useable in the real world, as the Botswana market (despite its proximity to RSA) doesn't have much in the way of synthetics.

With regard to oil coolers, the Ashcroft option is pricy; but frankly I would have thought that pretty much any modestly sized aftermarket cooler kit (cooler, hoses and clamps) would do, so it should be possible to shop around. Fleabay has (or at least did when I was last looking) quite a selection of possibles.