Low to high on the move

It is quite possible, and is simply routine for anyone who learnt to drive on vehicles without synchromesh.

I do this routinely both with the 110 and Series. High to low is more difficult, mainly because of the wide gap (and the circumstances you are likely to want to), but is easier and less likely to damage something on the 110 than on Series because low is constant mesh (with sliding gears, only one tooth at a time is engaging, so the loading resulting from mismatched speed is very high - with constant mesh all teeth engage at the same time, so the local loading is a lot lower).

John

im with the other lads,,, i go from low - high wile moving, i do it every time i get the boat out the water, but i never go from high to low on the move,

In Land Rover's manual for Africa, Working in the Wild, there is a section on the driving procedures for towing when needing to move off in low range and then changing to high range on the move. It is recommended that vehicles fitted with V8s should put the main gearbox into neutral BEFORE changing into high range.

If the engine is at its operating temperature, or warm enough so that the engine revs drop sharply when you take the foot off the throttle, this method works well. The extra clutching does result in a drop of road and engine speed, but I found this was easily overcome if I drove in low range until I was in 4th gear. I would then clutch and shift the main gear box into neutral, then clutch again to shift the range into neutral, then clutch again to shift into high range, and then again clutch to put the main gearbox into 2nd and then up through the gears to fifth as normal. Yes, it is a lot of extra clutching, but it works without any clunks or crunches, and the progression is smooth.

LRT

There's a factory booklet dating back to the 70s or 80s detailing how to do it.

But don't try with Maxidrive rockhoppers - the gap is just too much.

Regards
Max P

What about auto's???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tusker

There's a factory booklet dating back to the 70s or 80s detailing how to do it.

But don't try with Maxidrive rockhoppers - the gap is just too much.

Regards
Max P

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It's also detailed in the late 90's owners handbook too.


The linkage arrangement is poxy on with the later LT230 t/cases which doesn't help smooth shifting.
I often go to move the lever and it just sticks, there's too much flex and ******* about of the levers.

The old sliding gear Dana 20 in my first Jeep was much easier/smoother to shift up and down and the linkage bushes were worn on it.

Maybe that's a the problem, I shouldn't have installed new bushes in the linkages when i did the clutch 60,000km ago.

I find it mandatory in the bush to get between low range sections of track. 4th low is too slow so being able to go back to high range without stopping is very handy. Especially if in a group and you can't keep up using 4 low.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LRT

In Land Rover's manual for Africa, Working in the Wild, there is a section on the driving procedures for towing when needing to move off in low range and then changing to high range on the move. It is recommended that vehicles fitted with V8s should put the main gearbox into neutral BEFORE changing into high range.

If the engine is at its operating temperature, or warm enough so that the engine revs drop sharply when you take the foot off the throttle, this method works well. The extra clutching does result in a drop of road and engine speed, but I found this was easily overcome if I drove in low range until I was in 4th gear. I would then clutch and shift the main gear box into neutral, then clutch again to shift the range into neutral, then clutch again to shift into high range, and then again clutch to put the main gearbox into 2nd and then up through the gears to fifth as normal. Yes, it is a lot of extra clutching, but it works without any clunks or crunches, and the progression is smooth.

LRT

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Wot I put is how Land Rover teach it now... You don't need to shift the main gearbox into neutral. ;)

Double de-clutch the x-fer and shift the lever into Hi at EXACTLY THE SAME TIME as you start dropping the clutch, for the second time and you won't get any crunching.

M

Hi adonuff, you can change ranges on the move with an automatic transmission.

Here is an excerpt from the Land Rover Discovery II Owner’s Handbook 1st edition:

On automatic models, reduce (or increase) the speed of the vehicle to 8km/h and release the accelerator. Select ‘N’ and move the transfer lever quickly to the required ‘H’ or ‘L’ position. Finally, reselect ‘D’ with the main gear selector and continue driving as normal.
Note: After a little practice, this operation can be carried out smoothly and quickly by using firm, positive moves.

See pages 98-99 in the Discovery II owners handbook for more information.

It may take a few weeks of practice to get used to the procedure of changing ranges without any crunching sounds.

If you experience a loud clang sound when changing from Low to High see the thread below:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...manual-v8.html

LRT.